To Weave is Human:
Dior’s Subliminal Crafting Drawn from House Tradition and Artistry
Review of Christian Dior Spring 2024 Couture Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
A specific aura envelopes those who step within the hallowed halls of the Musee Rodin, albeit it is one of an overwhelming sense of artistic phenomena due to the presentation of Rodin’s work. So it is by stepping into this creative world, Maria Grazia Chiuri continues her artistic endeavor for couture. For S/S 24, she presented the work and musings of the feminine artist Isabella Ducrot. This heartfelt collaboration continues the House promotion of artisanal handcrafting, and this one, as in several collections of late, bears an underlying message that honours and defines the humble weave of the check, considered lowly in Western fashion and worn by women and children of domestic employ. The installation, titled “Big Aura”, was a series of painterly black lines on a white background that formed a backdrop for twenty-three handcrafted dresses, intentionally irregular and imperfect. Against this artisanal backdrop and to the sounds of words written by Patrizia Cavalli about the Warp and Weft of cloth, Chiuri presented a collection that was an artistic statement in her continuous endeavor to fuse feminine artistry with fashion. “Big Aura” is a contemplative journey of looking back to look forward, resulting from Maria’s decision to trace Dior’s “Aura”. Chiuri delved into Dior’s archives, recontextualizing couture through pieces like the La Cigale dress from A/W 1952, which grounded the collection with its construction and use of Moire fabric, unfurling a striking palette of iridescent gold, white, gray, burgundy, and green. In its sculptural definition, this dress becomes the starting point of a narrative that blurs the lines between art and life. Each silhouette is unique and carries a distinct aura, reflecting the singularity and authenticity of the designer’s art while simultaneously a testament to architectural elegance, sculpted with asymmetrical layers of material that celebrate the feminine form – and informs the basis of Dior’s work. Full skirts, cape collars, and elegant proportions are reimagined, revisiting details from Dior’s storied past to create contemporary masterpieces. Flowing dresses, delicate embroideries, and the chromatic presence of the garments speak to the aura-like dimension of haute couture.
THE BUZZWORDS
Sculptural Elegance, Big Aura, Artisanal, Warp and Weft
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 35
This silhouette is a quintessential dress that not only evokes the delicate craftsmanship of the Christian Dior House codes but also represents the overarching message behind the collection: there is beauty in simplicity, and by drawing on the collective memories, it emphasizes the human element and artistry involved in the weaving process, central to the collection’s narrative.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
According to Walter Benjamin’s definition, aura – to which Maria Grazia Chiuri and Isabella Ducrot refer in different ways – reflects the uniqueness and authenticity of the work of Art. It inscribes it in the collective memory.
THE WRAP UP
“To Weave is Human” is a collection rich in embroidery and sculptural elegance; it showcases the beauty of complexity set against a backdrop of the simplicity of artisanal reflections in Isabella Ducrot’s artwork and is a testament to the power of contrast in haute couture. It evokes the metamorphic spirit of imagination, weaving a narrative that is as much about the art of fashion as it is about the art of living. She redefines the boundaries of haute couture, presenting a collection that is a delicate interplay of history, art, and the endless possibilities of the weave. It’s also a narrative that celebrates the craftsmanship of couture and the artistry behind it, highlighting the intrinsic value of simplicity in design. This juxtaposition of the elaborate and the understated underlines the collection’s unique charm and reaffirms Dior’s mastery of blending art and fashion.
