Review of Dior Spring 2024 Men’s Fashion Show
The New New Look
By Mark Wittmer
Though it may have begun with an utterly futuristic staging setup, Kim Jones’ Spring 2024 men’s collection for Dior – which marks his fifth anniversary at the house – was all about digging into the past, while also feeling present and quintessentially Kim Jones.
After weaving through the K-Pop and Thai drama fans out front and navigating the spectacle of front row celebrity guests appearances inside, show-goers were situated in a long, futuristic hallway of steel and fluorescent lights. It seemed like any other show staging where the models would turn around the corner and walk down one by one – but instead, through a feat of engineering, they slowly rose up from the floor all at once.
In addition to being a visual spectacle, this staging conceit also was a window into the cohesion and colorful rhythm of the collection, which updated Dior icons for the homme moderne.
Tailoring takes center stage, and while Dior first launched menswear in 1970, Jones goes back farther than that, borrowing from iconic womenswear developments in the house’s first few decades to inform his sense of cut and detailing. Subtle references to the bar jacket and reworked tweed coats can be detected. The volumes, vents, pleats and necklines of Yves Saint Laurent’s collections for the House in 1959 inform relaxed suiting, summer ensembles, and double-breasted coats.
The mostly neutral color palette is punctuated by electric pops of pink, blue, and highlighter green, while the occasional leopard print or crystal embellishment adds playfully ostentatious character. Clompy-soled shoes feature charm details borrowed from the iconic Lady Dior bag.
In addition to the crystal embellishments, intricate knitwear, and unique weaving textures, the house’s craft mastery comes to the fore through a collaboration between house miliner Stephen Jones and the artist Cécile Feilchenfeldt. Frankly outrageous knit hats are given extra macaroni via the application of ronghua velvet flowers specially made by Chinese master artisans. Unequivocally the statement piece of the show, these hats are sure to be divisive; especially when pit agains the versatile and sensible tailoring, these extra-loud numbers are almost offensive. But who knows? Maybe they will sell, or maybe they are just a runway piece to add some extra panache. And panache they certainly add.
Brightening up a considered exploration of what historical Dior tailoring moments can mean for the modern man with bold use of color and headwear, Kim Jones balances sensibility and sass for another strong outing.
