Understated Elegance
Review of Fforme Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mario Abad
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Paul Helbers is a seasoned designer who has cut his teeth at Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and most recently, The Row. It’s the latter where his minimalist inclinations are most evident in Fforme, the brand he launched last fall. After debuting in a Chelsea gallery last season, this outing marked his first runway show as part of the NYFW calendar. The color palette was largely neutral save for a few pops of dusty rose.
THE BUZZWORDS
Minimalist, Understated, Purist
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 18
Amidst the simplicity of all the other garments shown, this look exemplifies how Helbers can still create something interesting from something seemingly so normal and give it a twist: a black leather hoodie with sleeves gathered up at the elbows.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Helbers launched Fforme with the goal of elevating everyday garments with powerful, sharp silhouettes. The New York runways thus far have largely strayed away from minimalism, but Helbers is one of the few designers to wave the flag for stripped-back and pure garments that are luxurious and discreet at the same time.
