Paradise Lost at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe
Review of Loewe Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Making the familiar, unfamiliar and the unknown known Jonathan Anderson at Loewe took another stab at dissecting the essence of Englishness. A lot like the Western trend, if country – the English country in this case – is not your thing then what are your options for the season? In what definitively works for his namesake JW Anderson brand back on British shores, what do radishes and pugs have to do with a Spanish heritage brand? And while many were downplaying the idea of whimsy for the more serious business of buying to invest, today chintzy florals were being touted as the absolute must-have print to splice with your evening attire.
There has often been cross-over between the man, his own brand, his corporate pay-check, and his influential collections of forward-thinking designs that often seem a few seasons ahead of the curve (you would truly have to be in-the-know to predict that a pigeon clutch is going to be a future-classic), but a simple search of the most popular luxury e-commerce sites is telling. As the most commercial hits (often found on Lyst’s quarterly Index) are what make up the majority of the buys, with experimentation only really taking place across accessories. As its easier to justify the purchase of a leather pump or strappy sandal with a brush as a heel (it will make for a good conversation starter at party’s at least), than it is a pair of Bermuda shorts with a giant pin – which could double as a makeshift weapon if needed – through the waist. So, it’s really a question of runway Vs reality, and are these shows showcasing surrealist ensembles simply as a vehicle to create buzzy marketing campaigns? Or is there a real push to put forward new ideas of the ways in which women may want to dress next season, which is a little left of centre. Which is a bigger question around how much of a designers vision actually makes it to the production stage. Because if we’re being honest is there a large enough customer base for a sequin embellished trapeze dress with a pug motif?
There were elements shorn from the menswear show which worked well, as there was an avoidance of wholesale mirroring, and it was interesting to see these quirkier details in a different context. The baggy cargo pants are sure to ‘big’ sellers for both the mens and womens collections, and the half-belt was this time affixed to a statement gown as opposed to a pair of jeans.
As with many of the other collections seen so far this month a lot of the looks on the runway will work better once pulled apart and paired with something more ‘everyday’, which is how the customer will inevitably wear it.
THE BUZZWORDS
English eccentricity, country casual, ideas overload
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #28
In principle this strapless mini is beautifully crafted with the softest of folds forming the bust, but the addition of the chintzy floral print – the sort of contrasting detail expected from the creative director – here feels like one idea too many in an outfit which may only ever be worn by the bravest of A-list star on the red carpet.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
A curated collection of quirkiness or elegant eccentricity is Jonathan Andersons M.O. and admittedly it is what keeps so many flocking to both his own brand and Loewe, but with this seasons take on twee, there is the question of how it will translate in the global market. As far from being an off-beat accessory, these were head-to-toe looks in wallpaper florals or radish prints and fully embellished sweat suits depicting a country scene in the style of Albert York whose work provided the backdrop of the set. A makeshift art gallery set over three rooms.
Described as clothing that celebrates being in the moment according to today’s show notes, there could have been greater emphasis on how these clothes would translate for the women who will wear it in those same everyday moments.
