Get an exclusive look at Schiaparelli‘s innovative Fall 2024 couture fashion show from the runways of Paris Couture Fashion Week, held in June 2024.
Cinematic Surrealism
Whether or not it was a necessity prompted by the impending Olympic Games taking over Paris, the decision to swap Schiaparelli’s usual venue of the monumental Petit Palais for a subterranean haven at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild was exactly what the house needed. It’s not like we’re tired of creative director Daniel Roseberry’s internet-breaking fashion stunts, but the decision to take a more focused (though still certainly fantastical) approach to evolving house codes was perfectly supported by the more subdued and sultry atmosphere.
Moodily lit by hanging chandeliers, the collection was a surrealist revisiting of some of Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature design codes and perspective, seen through a distorted cinematic lens. The silver feathers of the opening look’s winged cape was an homage to the feathered stole that Schiaparelli once wore in reference to the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, for whom she was often mistaken. Hourglass shapes and dramatic details evoke the designer’s famed connections with the surrealist painters.
Nonetheless, Daniel Roseberry’s own imaginative handwriting – particularly his subtle sense of humor and love for all things sculptural – is present throughout. This feels like a collection Elsa Schiaparelli might have witnessed in a fleeting dream, or a psychic message transmitted to Roseberry by ghosts of the past – and it was a stunning way to kick off the Fall 2024 couture season.
