A Year in Review: The Most Impactful Trends of 2023

The past year has seen a noticeable absence of daring marketing campaigns within the fashion industry. This trend of playing it safe contrasted starkly with previous years, where brands like Gucci set new standards for creative and emotive storytelling. The void left by such innovative campaigns was partially filled by Burberry and Prada, yet the industry as a whole seemed hesitant to embrace risk-taking in their marketing efforts.

This cautious approach to branding and marketing highlights a missed opportunity for many fashion houses. I don’t believe that fashion houses should continue their wait-and-see how the economy is going o go approach if they want to lead the economics of fashion. As we move into a new year, there is hope that fashion brands will rediscover their creative courage and return to making bold statements.

–Kenneth Richard, Chief Impressionist

2023 has unveiled a new chapter in the fashion industry, with pioneers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Dior embarking on a journey of destination shows, marrying style with global heritage. Their foray into destination shows has not only broadened the horizons of fashion presentations but also deepened the industry’s cultural imprint. The strategic decision by Louis Vuitton and Gucci to showcase in Seoul reaped substantial rewards, doubling their media impact compared to more traditional shows. Versace’s collaboration with Dua Lipa for “La Vacanza” during the Cannes Film Festival is a testament to this innovative approach, intertwining high fashion with the rhythm of cultural festivities. These curated events, thoughtfully placed outside the usual fashion calendar, have shone a spotlight on the brands, elevating them above the industry’s perpetual din.

Continuing this narrative of cultural immersion, Louis Vuitton’s upcoming Men’s Pre-Fall 2024 show, curated by Pharrell Williams at Hong Kong’s Avenue of Stars, stands as a beacon of this global trend. Echoing this sentiment, Dior’s Fall’23 collection in Mumbai further illustrates the industry’s commitment to weaving fashion narratives within the rich tapestry of diverse cultures. These venues are not mere backdrops but pivotal characters in each fashion story, imbued with their own histories and cultural resonances. The Avenue of Stars, a homage to the luminaries of Hong Kong cinema, and Mumbai’s vibrant spirit reflect a sophisticated fusion of fashion with local lore. This trend marks a shift towards a more nuanced and experiential approach in fashion showcases, where the allure of the runway is harmoniously blended with the essence of cultural heritage, offering audiences a journey that transcends the tactile allure of fabric and design.

–Mackenzie Richard, Head of Editorial

2023 was the year when the hot-take and the takedown reached its peak as fashion criticism became the title to covet for instant social media notoriety. What was once the premise of the fashion blogger who showed an appreciation for the industry and saw them work their way up from the fourth row to the first, today’s co-hort of fashion industry observers have taken to criticism with gusto. But does everything deserve debate? And are these newly-minted critics only looking for perceived flaws in a designer’s collections to have something controversial to say, which will in turn lead to clicks and engagement?

It must be noted that a major complaint being levied at the industry is that veteran critics may have lost their bite, in a bid to avoid alienating advertisers or worse being relegated to the second row. But the new generation of keyboard warriors on TikTok have decided to swing the pendulum too far in the opposite direction, with biting critiques on everything from set design to front rows. As the trend has been gaining momentum, in order to counteract the problem, many fashion houses decided to bring the naysayers in-house with enviable front row seats and after-party invitations. On the one hand stemming the tide of vitriol, but also inadvertently creating a blueprint for other social media creators to follow.

It is important that differing opinions are allowed the space to state their case, but problems arise when the critique doesn’t offer anything truly constructive, or ways in which a designer can develop and grow. Especially when it comes to learning from a faux-pas such as cultural appropriation or inappropriate behaviour. And while it’s true that not every creator is seeking access to the inner workings of fashion week, they should consider whether they are adding anything valid to the conversation, as everyone has the right to their opinion, but in the race for controversy the sector is becoming an echo-chamber of those who want to stand out by any-means-necessary.

–Angela Baidoo, Fashion Features Editor

While new creative directors make their presence felt on the runway in a way that has immediate excitement and impact, there is a less positive pattern to this year’s reshuffling, and it’s one the impact of which will continue to be felt long-term: the fact that practically all of these new roles have been filled by white men. It’s not that these new leaders aren’t qualified, but the homogeneity doesn’t reflect the reality of the people who are participating in fashion and leading its cultural shifts, and it feels like backwards progress in an industry that often already lags behind.

Nonetheless, change always presents an opportunity. These new leaders should recognize their responsibility to make their teams more diverse and inclusive, both in the boardroom and the design studio, so that moving forward – especially with the definitive new trend of appointing internally – these spaces can reflect the real face of fashion culture and consumption.

–Mark Wittmer, Senior Fashion Writer

The most impactful overarching trend that infused 2023 was the simple art of creativity and artistry. 2023 may have been marked by practicality and ongoing minimalism, but it was also a year marked by journeys that celebrated unique craftsmanship, we saw plenty of artful, romantic, and even surreal collections grace the runway. Perhaps the most enigmatic was a focus on genuine artisanal creativity. Glenn Martens and Junya Watanabe led this artistic endeavor with their distinctive use of materials. Martens’s wired pieces and Watanabe’s collages were crunched, twisted, and sculpted into beautiful tactile volumes, redefining the essence of fabric and form. 
At Bottega Veneta, Matthew Blazy presented the ultimate in handcrafting, showcasing collections that interweave classic elegance with innovative textiles articulated in each meticulously crafted piece. The brand’s airy pom-pom embellishments and fine mesh highlighted a sophisticated blend of experimental couture and serene exploration. Whether designing for his eponymous brand with surrealist interpretations or at Loewe, JW Anderson’s evident inclination toward intricacy and detail stood out for its surreal and poetic visual effects.

Matthew Blazy and JW Anderson are the industry’s leitmotifs of pure creativity. Their approach demonstrated the designers’ commitment to intricate craftsmanship and its vision to push the boundaries of traditional Fashion. The trend of artistry and creativity was also evident in the embellishments and textures used across various collections. In addition, the Sarah Burton collection for Alexander McQueen added layers of ethereal elegance and powerful feminine symbolism. While at Owens, silk capes and accordion-pleated tulle embodied a weightless charm. Marni, under Francesco Risso, unveiled a series of enchanting découpage, displaying both visual enchantment and delicate craftsmanship. Meanwhile, Maison Margiela, led by Galliano, articulated a fierce imagination, breaking down and translating elements of high Fashion into a breathtaking essay of deconstructed elegance.

The year 2023 was a canvas of artistry and creativity, a testament to the designers’ artistic vision and craftsmanship. And where designers embrace expressive, innovative, and artisanal approaches in their collections, celebrating the boundless possibilities of Fashion as an art form and offering a glimpse into clothing as a medium for creative expressions of style and beauty.

–Lizzy Bowring, Fashion Editor