Review of Chloé Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Chloé’s Courageous Women Inspire a New Generation
By Angela Baidoo
The Chloé brand has always been known as one which affords women a certain sense of freedom. Back when it was founded this meant becoming one of the first houses providing them with off-the-rack clothing that matched their changing lifestyles in the 1950s, birthing the modern woman’s wardrobe.
Today with Gabriela Hearst as Creative Director there is a renewed agency in providing women with not just a sense, but real freedom. Today’s show notes outline “a common goal of uplifting women and eliminating the barriers that stop them from reaching their full potential”. A noble goal which Hearst is determined to action during her time with the house.
Inspired by 17th-century Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, who overcame a range of societal and personal struggles to emerge as one of the most celebrated female artists of her time, the AW23 collection forms the third chapter in Gabriela’s exploration of climate success and the urgent need to champion women as leaders.
Chloe
With each season there is a renewed urgency by Hearst to channel a sense of living anthropology through the brand, which for fall 2023 meant a focus on climate change and its impact which skews negatively towards women and girls, and how they’re contributions within society “can play a leading role in the race to find climate solutions”. Using the global platform of an international fashion house, Hearst’s seasonal storytelling with a cause at the heart is on chapter three, and is inspired by 17th-century Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi “who overcame a range of societal and personal struggles to emerge as one of the most celebrated female artists of her time” according to the show notes. While the book of Esther, another formidable historical character, was transformed as graphic depictions across embroidered panelling and colourful tapestry’s.
Already experiencing a revival, silhouettes and shapes from the Renaissance – corsetry and pannier skirts to name a few – can be seen throughout the collection, as bishop sleeve dresses in leather and scaled-down versions of the pannier, as well as capes in both puffer and chiffon renderings were a modern reflection of the “feminine power of Artemisia’s paintings and her steely conviction” said Hearst. The use of black and white to graphic effect further emphasises both the strength and softness in the silhouettes seen throughout the collection. The knitted midi dress is given a feminine edge in black and cream that is made using one of Chloé’s pillar fabric of wool gauze. Bold stripes, diamond patterns, and colour blocking with the added pop of chocolate and mustard yellow add another dimension (and were made by Akanjo, a social enterprise in Madagascar who Chloé have a long-standing partnership with) and brings those historical leanings into a modern context for trench coat and bomber outerwear and slip dresses.
Faux fur was reworked into updated shapes that reflect the Chloé woman of today. Bomber silhouettes in patched fur or shearling offer a casual take when paired with tulip-shaped leather midis. And undyed fur ‘vests’ with oversized scarves make for an elegant contrast of textures and a new luxury uniform when styled with a leather coat and co-ordinating straight leg trousers.
The continued push by Gabriela Hearst for more meaningful connections within her collections for Chloé, for fall 2023 saw her incorporating the story of Esther – another heroic figure who risked her life for the freedom of the Jewish people during the Persian Empire – within a modern leather jacket and skirt set featuring subtle storybook-style embroideries and a technicolour patchwork dress, which was the work of the Mumbai-based Chanakya International embroidery studio (who provide local women with an education in hand embroidery). Both are sure to evoke an authentic emotional connection in all who own these pieces.
Unveiling Chloé Vertical. This unique and innovative digital ID, a technology powered by EON, will allow users to scan the labels of products with a smartphone, enabling them to trace their item from field to the finished piece.
Chloé
Launched at the time of last seasons runway collection, the ‘Chloé Vertical’ project continues to gather pace, by introducing a new level of transparency for the house, and “enabling full circularity with Instant Resale” they will lead as industry pioneers in the market. A unique digital ID will give customers the power to trace their purchases from “farm to finished piece”, as well as access to an ownership certificate for if, and when, it comes times to resell their item, the whole process can be done directly with Vestiaire Collective, who the luxury fashion house have partnered with. Becoming the first Maison to launch “a digital ID-integrated resale system, with the objective of developing a circular business model and extending the lifespan of its products”. This initiative will mean customers experience a seamless garment after-life experience, with the option to not only sell their garments, but make a difference through the alternative option of a charitable donation to UNICEF’s gender equality initiatives.