Dilara Findikoglu’s Visceral Vortex is a Call to Action
Review of Dilara Findikoglu Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Dilara Findikoglu is on a mission. She has been observing the world “built by the hands of men” – and which is destined to be destroyed by those very hands, according to todays show notes. The designer has also been coupling this with thoughts on the precarious times we are living in, and rather than pursuing business as usual, she has elected to stand with those few designers who are setting out their manifesto for change.
In Findikoglu’s case this is outlined as a New World Order “born of an unrelenting vortex of femme energy”. Calling on all to transcend the strict rules of conventional masculinity, and instead center the ideals of “tenderness, sumptuousness and vulnerability”. A worthy mission indeed, but on observation of her craft and the merging of performance and passion, the designer ought to consider expanding her scope. Because as much as she wants to tear down the patriarchy she would do well to start with enacting change from within her own industry, as a test case, or as practice for the very real fight ahead.
As an emerging designer, she is a deserving name worthy of the finale slots she has inhabited, as her shows are often extremely emotive and seem ‘contained’ by the very same strictures – of the fashion calendar – that she discusses in her show notes. In today’s show there was a combination of runway show, cabaret, and theatre, which at times left the viewer feeling like a voyeur. And her collection ran the gamut of sybaritic lingerie, corseted costume, sensual sportswear, and bastardised business attire.
It’s true that by staging her events during fashion week she has the ability to corral the attention of those who will buy into her brand, but the designer occupies an interesting niche that is at once reminiscent of the late Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen by way of the macabre visual language of Tim Burton. A niche that should break out of the traditional fashion calendar and dream as big as she compels those who boldly wear her brand in the broad daylight to do.
THE BUZZWORDS
Femme energy, ritualistic reconditioning, the divine feminine
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Where look #36 of Dilara Findikoglu’s fall 2024 collection sits – costume, fashion, art – is not up for debate, but what it does show is the designers highly developed skills for bucking convention and creating designs which create a visceral reaction in all who witness her work.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
They are so many pieces that are wearable (the denim pieces are made in Italy), and maybe you can’t imagine yourself in it, but I would see myself in most of the pieces. I feel like we see enough products in the world, and on the catwalk, that I just want people to dream and manifest this dream of the future, rather than seeing another white shirt.
Dilara Findikoglu
THE WRAP UP
Whether her next course is couture (which she referred to backstage, as part of her process every season), or if she is able to secure enough backing to fund her campaign for a New World Order, she could start a new platform for creatives who don’t wish to be pinned down or hemmed in by patriarchal norms. Either way it was a positive step to see her back on the runway, as Findikoglu is set to put the world (hers or the world-at-large) to rights one way or another.
