the impression Femininity and the Lightness of Being Haute Couture Spring 2024 trend header image

Femininity and the Lightness of Being

Spring 2024 Fashion Trend

The ethereal themes of lightness and transparency at the Haute Couture show in Paris showcased diverse designs that embraced textural, sculptural, and luminous transparency. With its nod to Minimalism, this trend focused on clean, pure lines, highlighting the fabric’s inherent beauty. Balletcore elements added an extroverted play on silhouettes, infusing a sense of whimsical elegance into the collections. Designers like Fendi, Dior, and Chanel masterfully incorporated these themes, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics to create visually stunning pieces that embodied the spirit of innovation and artistry prevalent in Haute Couture.

Fendi’s latest collection epitomizes innovation in minimalism, blending simplicity with sophistication, and it is at the heart of this movement. Kim Jones leveraged luxurious materials like silk gazar and super kid mohair to sculpt garments celebrating human form that pivot around the new ‘Scatola’ silhouette (translating to ‘box,’), exploring the boundaries of geometry, structure, and lightness with unabashed movement and transparency. The collection was a masterclass balancing structured and fluid elements, highlighting Fendi’s commitment to craftsmanship and ornamental beauty. Yet the show also featured minimalist elements that were poetry in motion, with ribbed knit fabrics layered over one another, feathery turquoise gowns with a sheen to them, and shimmering liquid skirts, suits, and columnar sheaths – the final vignette of quivering column dresses an ode to Minimalism and balanced perfectly the teeter between elegance and futuristic shapes. 

Maria Grazia Chiuri likewise focused on wearability within the craft, with a striking Dior collection of plain cotton and moire pieces inspired, in part, by Christian Dior’s 1952 La Cigale dress and his aerodynamic couture. While paying homage to the past, her columnar silhouettes also spoke to the pure narrative that permeated several looks, emphasizing movement and freedom. 

Armani Privé’s craftsmanship presented dresses with filigree treatments that delicately and subtly revealed the skin beneath. The gowns, as fragile as spun sugar, added an airiness to the collection, emphasizing the trend towards ethereal and lightness. Pieter Mulier’s Fall Alaïa show in Paris was a masterful exhibition of minimalist design. The collection, rooted in simplicity yet technologically and mathematically sophisticated, used merino wool to create various sculptural and asymmetrical designs. The minimalist aspect was evident in the use of clean lines and understated elegance, combined with experimental techniques that redefined the traditional understanding of Minimalism in fashion. This approach, while honoring the heritage of Azzedine Alaïa, allowed Mulier to carve out a distinct creative path, blending the sensual with the understated in a modern context.

Jean Paul Gaultier and Simone Rocha’s romantic ballerina silhouettes added a note of Minimalism in the whisper of purist cuts, an everlasting embodiment of Rocha’s vision of purity and form. Every silhouette spoke a narrative of femininity, from the sheer nude silk organzas to the Victorian constructions that provided voluminous shapes. Central to this theme is the emphasis on the feminine form, creating a powerful statement on femininity.

Schiaparelli once again placed a stunning visual emphasis on the lightness of clothes; the streamlined silhouettes sparkled in versions of the tank dress crafted in nude sequins and rhinestones or a transparent nude voile dress embroidered with Swarovski sequins that vibrated and shimmered as the model walked the plush cream carpeting. 

While at Chanel, the ballet’s core theme transfused the lighter-than-air tulle creations inspired by ballerinas, showcasing ethereal fabrics and girlish elements. The baby pink tulle pieces adorned with floral prints and 3D flower embellishments highlighted the enduring allure of the trend.

The emphasis on lightness, transparency, and pure lines, focusing on minimalist elegance, heralds a future where fashion is not afraid to showcase femininity but also explores the rhythms of comfort and functionality. This season celebrates garments’ inherent beauty and functionality, promising a future where fashion resonates with aesthetic appeal and practicality.


Fashion Editor - London | The Impression