Human Nature
Review of Gabriela Hearst Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
A crisply tailored suit or a minimalist formal dress might at first blush feel quite opposite to words like “organic,” “earthy,” and “spiritual” – words that we lovingly associate with the work of Gabriela Hearst – but her latest collection has made a convincing argument that these two sides can indeed coexist, and do so beautifully. Subtly drawing inspiration from the archetypal forms of the natural world and the hidden geometries that underlie them, Hearst infused this natural beauty into a collection of pristine tailoring and soulful elegance.
It’s the designer’s first collection since the announcement of her departure at Chloé, the news of which had many lamenting that her tenure at the house lasted for a relatively brief span of just three years. But this collection showed that her time creating work on the level of French luxury is far from over, and she nicely incorporated this ethos into her signature take on American elegance by way of Uruguayan heritage.
THE BUZZWORDS
Sculptural. Crisp. Organic. Soulful.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 26
A simple and sinuous black silk dress is transformed into a statement of organic power through the addition of structured leather sleeves inspired by seashells or insect carapaces – complete with a coordinating (and very cool) bag.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Focusing in on her core ethos of organic elegance (which she nicely continued across menswear as well, a recent category addition for the brand) in a way that was well crafted but not overly crafty, Gabriela Hearst delivered a quietly beautiful collection that paid homage to the forms of nature without sacrificing an ounce of contemporary humanity.
