Get an exclusive look at Loewe‘s innovative Spring 2025 men’s fashion show from the runways of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, held in June 2024.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe Spring Men’s Show: A Study in Restraint
Jonathan Anderson’s latest spring men’s show for Loewe was a masterclass in restraint. As guests arrived at the spacious venue, they were greeted with security guards surrounding miniature black metal sculptures of mice and copies of Susan Sontag’s “Against Interpretation” scattered on the wooden floor.
Set to William Basinski’s haunting “Disintegration Loops,” the collection exuded a sense of holding back, with a focus on looks like the slim black suit and repeated silhouettes echoing Basinksi’s emotive soundscapes.
The models, adorned with painted pheasant feathers and draped in billowing pants, captivated the audience. Checkered shorts and tight polo shirts evoked nostalgic imagery, while biker jackets with cocktail dress necklines added a modern twist.
Anderson’s inspiration stemmed from a 1981 photo of a woman’s pump by Peter Hujar, displayed on the runway. Describing his collection as “very knife-cut,” he highlighted the intricate details like spongey silk mohair tailoring and loose-cut sleeves.
References to English schoolboys and military attire were visible in the Oxford bag trousers and khaki coats with folded lapels. Celebrities and fashion enthusiasts donned Loewe apparel before the show, adding a touch of glamour to the event.
Unlike Loewe’s usual adrenaline-fueled presentations, this collection spoke softly, exemplified by a stunning brown leather coat fused with black ostrich skin. Anderson’s show left a hypnotic impact, hinting at a new direction for the brand.
