Stretching across a particularly jam-packed two weeks in Milan and Paris (as well as the promising return of a dedicated men’s week in London), the Spring 2025 menswear season saw houses with a competent focus on steadily evolving brand codes rub elbows with daring moments of artistic experimentation.
With his second men’s collection for Gucci, creative director Sabato De Sarno introduced a new sense of vibrancy that expanded his nascent vision for the historic brand.
Dries Van Noten’s final collection at the helm of his eponymous label was a fitting victory lap for the fiercely independent designer who, through a design language of vibrant prints, uniquely rich material selection, and a subtle avant-garde flair, earned his reputation as one of the most beloved designers of those in the know.
Prada led Milan once again with Miuccia Prada’s and Raf Simons’ optimistic rethinking of a classic young man’s wardrobe, infusing imaginatively reinvented details to subtly challenge and inspire our perceptions of contemporary reality – whether virtual or otherwise.
But the undeniable standout moment of the season was Rick Owens‘ deeply moving show that traded his usual black for white – a potent symbol of peace and renewal – and individual models for groups of 20 identically dressed individuals. It was a spectacle on the scale of his beloved Cecil B. DeMille films, and it sent a stunningly beautiful message of solidarity at a time when it is desperately needed.
Here are The Impression’s picks for the Top 10 runway shows of the Spring 2025 Menswear season as selected by our editor-in-chief, Kenneth Richard.
10 – Amiri (tie)
10 – Louis Vuitton (tie)
9 – JW Anderson
8 – Loewe
7 – Gucci
6 – Dior
5 – Fendi
4 – Zegna
3 – Dries Van Noten
2 – Prada
1 – Rick Owens
