A Decade Of Building America’s House Of Leather
Review of Coach Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mario Abad
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Stuart Vevers turned a decade at Coach this year, and so this season saw him revisit classic Coach ready-to-wear staples and some of the hit bags he’s introduced since he first joined the brand. The main groupings were leather, tailoring, distressed knits, and lace slips. Most of the looks were made with repurposed materials from previous Coach collections as well as second-hand shops.
THE BUZZWORDS
Relaxed. Heritage. Youthful.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
LOOK # 23
While most of the collection’s focus went to its leather separates and dresses, the portion that stood out the most was the group of punk-ish, striped tattered knit dresses, especially the neon and black number which contained all of Coach’s classic hallmarks including animal brooches and two bags: one slung over the model’s shoulder and the other a classic bowling style.
THE DIRECTION
Every seat in the New York Public Library’s Celeste Bartos Forum had a leather Coach notebook with a kiss print that was featured in the collection (and also in the digital invitation). All the guests were front row and Jennifer Lopez, who’s starred in numerous campaigns for the brand, drew the most camera flashes of the night.
THE QUOTE
As I reflect on the past ten years, I wanted the collection to feel personal, too, and to capture the New York fashion archetypes that define my imagination and memories of what the city is, then and now.
– Stuart Vevers
THE WRAP UP
When it comes to grand historical venues, New York lags a bit behind its European fashion capitals, but the Public Library is one of the few exceptions. Its opulent halls were a fitting backdrop for the magnitude of the moment, as well as a nice contrast to the collection’s casual offerings. (It was also the first Tapestry fashion show since the company bought Capri a few weeks ago.) While there were some new twists this season — a quilted Tabby bag, jelly flats, patent sneakers, and even some PETA demonstrators on the runway — Vevers kept things simple and unfussy. It was an exercise in straightforwardness (hardly any look had more than two layers) and simplicity, but infused that “pre-loved” and worn-in feeling that the designer does so well.
