Sensual, sexual, and provocative, Simone Rocha delivers with Intrigue
Review of Fendi Spring 2024 Couture Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Today marked an extraordinary milestone for Simone Rocha, the 6th in line, to receive an invitation from Gaultier to be the latest guest designer for his thoughtful project. There has always been a distinct anticipation for these collaborations, and each has brought its unique interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic heritage. But it’s safe to say, not one with as much expectation.
Both designers have unmistakable handwriting, from Gaultier’s Breton stripes, the conical bra, silver aluminum perfume bottle, the sailor’s cap, blazer, and corsetry juxtaposed against Rocha’s darkly romantic pieces, romantic puff sleeves, pearls, and homespun designs – yet both in some way delve into aspects of exaggerated, subversive femininity.
Simone Rocha turned today’s presentation into something extraordinarily different. Yes, it was provocative, sensual, sexual, and inherently seductive, yet it was accomplished subtly and gently – a little of Marie Antoinette, a dose of Victoriana and a bride on her wedding night – it was a bringing together of a ‘virginal’ marriage of both sensibilities.
Rocha explored Gaultier’s vast archives, finding ideas in renowned collections such as “Le Defilé” (1985), “The Age of Enlightenment” (Spring 1998), and the enduring “Tatouage.” Bringing her distinct interpretation to this ‘project,’ she worked closely with stylist Robbie Spencer and immersed herself in haute couture techniques as if she had been born for the process. Consequently, thanks to Rocha’s obsession with hand-crocheted lace, antique Irish lace came lacquered and dipped in metal, seen in a striking voluminous skirted dress. Each piece showcased her penchant for intricacy, delicate bows, the finest appliqued flowers, and delicate embroideries, subtly placed to not bare those parts of the female anatomy but leaving enough to tantalize the imagination. Her signature blood-red accents appeared as intricately crafted feathered flowers that blended fragility and strength. The aluminum turned up in subtle silver embroideries and delicate singular sprigs of roses – held virginally by each model. The corsetry was subtle in execution, laced delicately to outline the femininity of form yet subversive with the addition of suspenders crafted in diamantes, gracing the lobes of her brides. The footwear further emphasizes this theme, with ballet-inspired styles and perspex shoes with sharply angled heels that echo French elegance, occasionally adorned with a hair tail, adding a whimsical yet poignant nod to Victorian sentimentality. And the materials were lighter than air, caressing the body, offering intrigue and sensuality.
One of the collection’s highlights includes a reinterpretation of Gaultier’s iconic cone bra; transformed into a thorn motif, it symbolized Rocha’s unique take on femininity. The Breton stripe became a sheer ‘blouse’ the stipes reimagined in delicate strands of silk ribbon – black. The ‘sailor’ cap came recrafted in nude-colored satin, and even when the attention is drawn to the mother of the female anatomy, the breasts bore a subtle perky twist. But there was more to this intimate collection. Every silhouette spoke a narrative, from the sheer nude silk organzas to the Victorian constructions that provided voluminous shapes. Central to this theme is the emphasis on the feminine form, particularly the breasts, a shared motif between Rocha and Gaultier, creating a powerful statement on femininity. The collection’s color palette, with its dusky, faded hues punctuated by assertive black and Simone’s signature red, adds depth and sophistication, evoking a sense of nostalgia yet remaining firmly placed in the present.
THE BUZZWORDS
Provocative, Translucency, Subversion, Pre-nuptial, Victoriana Corsetry, Pretty
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 35
Corsetry has been the ‘foundation’ for both designers’ sensibilities, Gaulitier’s more street savvy, and Rocha’s provocative and sensual. With its translucent effect, this dress encapsulates the absolute perfection of the narrative within this utterly tender collection.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
There is a really strong feminine feeling in much of Gaultier’s work: women harnessing their power and celebrating it.
– Simone Rocha
THE WRAP UP
The marriage of these two opposites was not just about merging different styles and discovering shared creative threads but also a presentation of the possible – a bold exploration of femininity, weaving together historical influences and contemporary perspectives. Rocha found common ground with Gaultier’s aesthetics; her reinterpretation of Gaultier’s iconic pieces provided a unique perspective on femininity. Who would have thought that melding the iconic semblances of Jean Paul Gaultier with such feminine seduction could yield such a stunning and evocative interplay of sensibilities with historic elegance and modern sensuality? This collection is undoubtedly an ode to women, to those who are as seductive as Marie Antoinette, confident in their accomplishments, and not afraid of harnessing their power; it was indeed an everlasting embodiment of Rocha’s vision of purity and form.
