A Masterclass in Colournomics and Texturology
Review of Dries Van Noten Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
There have been many show notes and backstage interviews with designers lamenting on the idea of the everyday. But at this stage of fashion month this idea needs to be reframed, if its not to continue igniting the ire of the masses, who will consider coats which cost upwards of four figures as anything but everyday. Rather designers should pitch these clothes – which may or may not be a more subdued version of their norm – as their take on what THEIR CUSTOMER (and yes that may be a millionaire heiress) wants to wear in her day-to-day coming’s and going’s. That would make more sense and show less of a detachment from reality.
The response to all of this (whether directly or indirectly) in today’s show was to stick to the craft, which was a fun romp through all that Dries Van Noten is renowned for – oddly beautiful colour pairings, rich pattern placement, and sensuous structure. For those who have studied Van Noten, they will note that next fall’s collection will be all about colournomics and texturology. And rather than being about whether the clothes are accessible on a financial level, these are clothes that speak on an intellectual plane, clothes that you would save up and invest in as you know they will live on as part of your style story. Because muddy lilac and shocking cobalt combined with bubblegum pink takes a true Dries devotee to both understand and interpret these looks into their ‘everyday’ wardrobes.
Splicing what would be considered as lounge into haute fashion is nothing new, the 2000s were a notorious time for blending the high and the low, but here the idea of a double-breasted satin jacket with denim jacket sleeves could only be described as a harbinger of what hybrid dressing is set to morph into. And dressing down got a dressing down as sweats were repurposed in the Dries way, folded into new sculptural shapes or draped into a billowy skirt set. In playing with the idea of what is casual and what is formal for fall there is a questioning of the need for such labels when this collection could carry the wearer into any scenario they may find themselves in, with coloured separates used as the ultimate layering tool to create the perfect mismatched pairings that will always work together whatever the combination.
THE BUZZWORDS
Colournomics, texturology, patchworked perfection
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #54
As the ultimate in anti-everyday, Dries Van Noten piles on the texture in colours that should jarr, but ultimately work together, and with a reversed shirt, there is a real push towards subversion, but subversion that will work for any occasion when pulled apart as individual items.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
In another’s hands the mash-up of textures, layers, and colours would not have been done justice, but Dries Van Noten knows his way around form that moves fashion forward and challenges his customers to always think differently, to strive to live beyond the lounge suit, because there will be better ways to hybrid dress come fall 2024.
