In Search of Intelligence in the Artisanal at Tod’s
Review of Tod’s Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Maker-mode, hand and heart, artisanal innovation
Not artificial but artisanal. An obsession with synthetic forms of intelligence is distracting us from the knowledge that has been here for centuries, embedded in artisanal handcraft.
Again, Italian designers are reminding us of the importance of the individual. At Tod’s that individual in question is the maker, the one whose hands form the final product and whose knowledge is comparable to that of any AI tool. Yet, the ability to innovate through craft is not something that is valued as highly in fashion.
In a case of ‘use it or lose it’, the industry is facing a succession problem as the work of the craftspeople who reside in both Italian and French ateliers may soon be lost to time, as the next generation shows more interest in ‘generating’ digitally than learning skills such as making a driving shoe from scratch. This is an issue that needs to be addressed today, rather than at some time in the distant future.
In titling his collection ‘Artisanal Intelligence’ creative director Matteo Tamburini is confident in where the next phase of innovation lies for Tod’s, research and experimentation which retains the underlying values of Made in Italy, as outlined in the show notes.
The “discreet luxury” found in towns along the Mediterranean coast were a placeholder for where the designer envisioned his Tod’s woman wearing spring 2025. The idea of providing wardrobe solutions has been many a designers creative response to the volatility being felt in the luxury industry. By giving women what they want, many brands may just ride out this storm and make it out on the other side unscathed. Today it was all about solutions for the Italian lifestyle in “premium materials” but in the silhouettes seen on the runway the designer was also thinking about longevity – a wardrobe relaxed enough to grow with the Tod’s customers evolving needs.
The shows strongest looks were the sweeping trench coats whose hems had been extended so they swooped back on themselves and draped around the neckline. Leather was also a material whose fluidity made it move as if fabric. The teal pleated trapeze dress is something AI could only dream (do robots dream?) of coming up with, as it was the perfect meeting of innovation, craft, and “timeless elegance”.
To show and prove its craft heritage, a line-up of craftspeople in their lab coats also greeted guests and demonstrated the process of making the brands iconic driving shoe. Including its hand-stitched finish and a glimpse into its multiple component parts. A process that not many will be privy to or have seen in-person. It brought to life that’s Tod’s future as a brand lies in their values which can be found in the ‘Artisanal Intelligence’ of their makers.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
The monumental work, in the form of giant hand sculptures, from artist Lorenzo Quinn (son of Anthony Quinn, whose work has graced buildings and landscapes from the Venice Bienale to the UN Climate Change Conference) dominated todays showspace. With the hands in this case “gripping crossed leather bands, symbolising craftsmanship excellence and Italian know-how”. Walking within this loop-the-loop construction during the finale brought the collection into its own full circle moment, with the circularity of life and clothing which takes the long view, meeting in the middle.
