A Study in Movement, Protection, and Optimism
Review of Courrèges Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Up to 3 key words (five max) that encapsulate the collection
For Nicolas Di Felice, Courrèges has always been about a balance between precision and freedom, structure and movement. This season, he sought to capture that tension in a new way—by designing with a single, continuous gesture. The idea was simple yet poetic: what if a garment could be shaped in one fluid motion, like a flick of the wrist, a streamer unfurling in the air?
Di Felice called this approach the “One Minute Courrèges Movement”, a method that sought to infuse his designs with an organic ease, evoking spontaneity without sacrificing construction. The reference to confetti and streamers—both in the warm, glowing ambiance of the show and in the elongated, sculptural drapes of fabric—felt symbolic of celebration, but also of transformation.
This was a collection about movement, not just in the literal sense, but in the way fashion evolves, in the way bodies inhabit space, and in the way joy can feel both fleeting and necessary.
The collection itself played within familiar Courrèges codes: geometric construction, sharp tailoring, and an unwavering sense of modernity. It was, in many ways, exactly what we have come to expect from the house—sleek, minimalistic, and forward-thinking without veering into the overtly nostalgic. But within that expected framework, Di Felice found subtle ways to push forward. The elongated silhouettes, trailing elements, and enveloping lines all traced back to his central theme of fluidity, creating pieces that felt wrapped around the body in a singular motion.
The sense of protection—a theme Di Felice revisited from André Courrèges’ early work—was present, but this season, it was reframed with a sense of urgency and optimism. Vinyl outerwear and technical fabrics reinforced the idea of clothing as armor, but rather than feeling heavy or restrictive, they were light, dynamic, and full of energy. Di Felice has always had an interest in the intersection of fashion and nightlife culture, and this season, he took that further.
This was a wardrobe for movement—whether that meant stepping into a crowded city street, onto a dance floor, or into an uncertain future.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Last season was the first time I felt truly pessimistic, which isn’t like me. So this time, I went in the opposite direction. I found a book by Dan Colen—100 pages of confetti—and it instantly brought me back to joy. I imagined a white box, now filled with confetti. Streamers became a key element, shaping garments in a single gesture—what we called ‘One Minute Courrèges Movement.’ André Courrèges said he used color because the world was gray, and right now, it feels gray again. I wanted to go further—to bring both protection and joy.
THE WRAP UP
In many ways, this was Di Felice at his most confident—leaning into his instincts, refining his vocabulary, and crafting a collection that felt both timely and deeply personal. Rather than attempting to reinvent Courrèges entirely, he fine-tuned its essence, making small yet meaningful evolutions. The result was a collection that balanced structure with softness, movement with precision, and nostalgia with a keen awareness of the present.
While it may not have been a radical departure from what we expect of Courrèges, it didn’t need to be.
It was a quiet yet assured step forward, proving that innovation doesn’t always have to be loud—it can be as simple and effective as a single, sweeping line.
