Review of Altuzarra Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Oracular Spectacular
By Mark Wittmer
In a Fall 2023 season that has largely responded to contemporary concerns and world-weariness with collections that offer sensible and conservative wardrobe staples, Joseph Altuzarra instead looked to the mythical and mystical to brew up a potent philtre of magical, powerful, and feminist optimism. Inspired by authors like Charlotte Higgins, Ursula K. Le Guin, and Madeline Miller who have revisited Greek myths from the perspective of their often overlooked woman characters, the collection steeps itself in a visual world of mythology and mysticism to create an intoxicating commemoration of feminine power.
Inspired by authors like Charlotte Higgins, Ursula K. Le Guin, and Madeline Miller who have revisited Greek myths from the perspective of their often overlooked woman characters, the collection steeps itself in a visual world of mythology and mysticism to create an intoxicating commemoration of feminine power.
While a parka feels more like a necessary response to extremely cold conditions than an elegant evening statement-maker, the collection’s first looks made it just that. Worn with their oversized fur-lined hood analogues around the shoulders like a mantle, they used a contemporary fashion language of hybridity and deconstruction to deliver a statement of refined old-world glamor. But it was the stunning colors that really made the biggest impact, a kaleidoscopic design that recalled the gossamer wings of tropical butterflies, the open-ended mystery of a Rorschach test, or the oracular symbolism of tea leaves.
These colors signaled we were in for a treat, and never let up. From the opening parkars they dazzled across liquid jersey dresses, prim peacoats, hooded knit sets, and dresses that pushed the subtle theme of mysticism through their feeling of fitting right in at a 1920s palm reading or seance parlor, a look that carried across the long gloves.
Even when the entirely solid-color looks came out, they still made a similar sensuous impact thanks to ethereal draping. Easy to wear and elegant, these dresses make careful use of twisting, knotting, and gathering to cocoon and cascade from the body, transforming their wearers into Grecian oracles out of time. The hooded numbers particularly recall the sinuous silhouettes of Anthony Vaccarello’s work at Saint Laurent, but seen in a different, more vibrant light.
Pattern play returns in a more restrained form for the collection’s final movement, with delicate floral motifs that look as if they are painted on delicately twining up arms, spine, and ribcage. The parkas return in an even more formal and evening-ready, almost princess-like form to close out the show with a breath of majesty.
We’re familiar with current fashion’s penchant for hybridizing technical wear into more formal “high fashion” pieces (embodied by the likes of Sacai, Y/Project, and more), but Altuzarra has put it to use in a way here that feels both totally fresh and timeless. Similarly impressive is the way these dazzlingly reconfigured parkas fit so gracefully into a collection that also features dresses which would feel right at home and commanding of attention in both an ancient temple of Venus or a scene of The White Lotus.
Daring to look beyond the trends and constraints of today, Altuzarra has crafted a collection that is timeless, contemporary, and beautiful, and feels like just what today needs.