Review of Fendi Fall 2023 Fashion Show
A Twisted Tale of the Ultra-luxe and the Everyday
By Angela Baidoo
A fourth generation Fendi woman was the starting point for Kim Jones journey to a place where women’s everyday wear can be ultra-luxe or subtly subversive.
Delfina Delettrez, the daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, whose own designs for her jewellery line reverberates with a passion for the culture of Italy, as well as ‘moments of subversive classicism’, stood in as muse for Jones for fall 2023. Observing in his show notes that his interest in Delettrez sprung from her individual way of wearing the brand that bears her name “There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI”. And twist it he did, as nothing within the collection appeared at face value, as little twists here and there demonstrated what separates one cashmere sweater from another.
It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI, which is what I love.”
Kim Jones, Artistic Director, Fendi
Believing in the potency and allure of good design, todays collection was his strongest to date. Relying on the appeal of a well-cut coat and inventive construction techniques which will appeal to, rather than alienate the Fendi customer, the designer gave us a collection of – to use a term that we will all be over-familiar with this season – real world clothes. The use of hushed textures that gave a soft shine, such as satins and velvets helped to create a sense of tactility to contrast the utilitarian looks in leather, and there was a cohesive message of ultra-luxury in the paring back and pushing forward the idea of buying into simplicity, not only as a way to elevate but also to quiet the noise of the hyperbolic design trends, which have been popular of late.
Considering that the consumer is thinking twice about where they place their discretionary spend, there has been a slow, but steady wave who are looking to trade up and invest in fashion that lasts beyond the fads, and for fall 2023 Jone’s twisted knitwear, layered pants, and sequin lined coats will work hard for the money.
The knitwear in the collection was what deserved the highest praise, as a classic sweater silhouette when viewed from behind, revealed an open back construction with knotted sleeves, and the plackets of relaxed cardigans were peeled away and twisted around the neck, while maxi ribbed dresses featured off-kilter roll-neck bibs that were draped along the shoulder.
Believing in the potency and allure of good design, todays collection was his strongest to date. Relying on the appeal of a well-cut coat and inventive construction techniques which will appeal to, rather than alienate the Fendi customer.
The palette of cool neutral tones reflected the times we are all living through, and created an elevated level of desirability by drumming home the idea of everyday clothes – from sharp tailored suits, to soft separates, asymmetric midi knits, and layered skirts and pants. The designer shifted focus onto clothes that will be coveted for their echoes of elegance.
It wasn’t all serious business (attire) though, as the “exploration and elevation of deconstruction” meant that tailored waistcoats came with grown on additions at the sides to create a 2-in-1 hybrid, with the same concept being applied to a pair of pants, very subversive indeed.