Flatform to platform and wedge-ed in between, these styles put heightened newness into summer footwear.
There is not a chance of missing this trend; from Copenhagen, New York, London, Milan, and Paris, built-up soles are embraced with new proportions. Gabriela Hearst, Max Mara, and Jonathan Simkhai all showed a form of either raffia or leather with a leather upper. Gabriela Hearst covered her covetable and comfortable items with contrasting leather bands, and Max Mara showed with the ubiquitous toe-post. Over at Ulla Johnson, handcrafted details were showcased with rope midsoles and were a perfect addition to her beautifully orchestrated collection.
The next step up came in wedge heels, and no one did it better than Dries Van Noten; his sculpted heel offering, with contrasting black and gold, will be a must for any S/S 23 shopping list. Alberta Ferretti played into the handcrafting theme with several elegant items embellished with coloured stones and ankle straps. Halpern, too, looked to the wedge shape and gave it an extra-modern twist in a two-piece heel. He also remembered that sometimes, heels have a habit of slipping off the foot, and the addition of a transparent slingback was quite clever. Fendi’s colourful footwear, with its inverted ‘F’ at the heel, came with lace-ups or slip-on mules; either way, comfort, and colour were the key drivers.
Finally, higher than high, maxi-minimalist platforms. Ports 1961 added interest to the hybrid design of a clog, with fabric detailing wrapped around the midsole, secured with a buckle and strap. And perhaps not for the fainthearted, Giambattista Valli and Versace stacked up the height with solid heels and sole (soul!).
