After much ado about quiet luxury and a pushback against it, Spring 2025 saw something of a welcome return to designers creating clothes for a thoughtful, functional, and personal individual wardrobe. One of the ways this theme manifested itself is a consideration for the need of clothing that can be worn to work and beyond, a reflection on the multifaceted, often boundary-less dynamic pace of contemporary life.
Suiting that is both office-ready and expressive thus formed a strong backbone of many collections, from the sober sophistication of Max Mara and Michael Kors to the quietly dramatic nocturnal polish of Erdem or Jil Sander.
With the introduction of his first full womenswear collection, S.S. Daley explored another evolution of his ongoing interrogation of British bourgeois and aristocratic dress codes.
Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy explored the idea of childlike dress-up through playfully oversized and structurally recoded suiting and shirting – a very relevant synthesis of the moment’s atmosphere of playful decadence and rigid refinement.