Yves Lives in Anthony Vaccarello’s Sublime Suiting
Review of Saint Laurent Men’s Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Closing out Paris fashion week with a surprise menswear show, Anthony Vaccarello built on what has been a few years of excellent growth for Saint Laurent men’s with a collection that paid tribute to the man who started it all as it focused on sublime suiting.
As with his women’s show that closed the first day of Paris Fashion Week, here Vaccarello seemed mostly concerned with taking one idea and doing it really well (as opposed to widening the product range and achieving cohesion across broader categories). Thankfully, unlike the almost all-sheer women’s collection, the men’s doesn’t bring up potential accusations of sexism and fatphobia – although the contrast between the two does seem to provide more fuel for that conversation.
Structural yet slightly oversized and drapey double-breasted suits dominate the collection, referencing 80s power suiting and a classic Saint Laurent identity. This latter aspect is especially palpable in the eyewear that appears frequently through the earlier part of the collection, instantly recalling famous portraits of Yves himself and his signature glasses – a kind of focal point for the self-referential aspect of the show, perhaps pointing to a modern man who bridges business and art and is his own muse.
Aside from the suits, leather jackets and belted coats offer some welcome change in texture and silhouette, while silk turtlenecks offer an elegant evening alternative to shirt and tie.
THE BUZZWORDS
Classic. Self-referential. Powerful yet sensitive suiting.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #2
The striking resemblance of this model to a young Yves Saint Laurent was a powerful opener for a show that beautifully carried forward the designer’s influential mastery of cut and structure.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Real-life wearability hasn’t seemed to be a primary focus for Vaccarello’s menswear of late, as instead he has sought to push forward with clothes that are simply beautiful – and he’s been succeeding. Here, however, he has done both, creating beautiful and beautifully made suits that pretty much any man would be infinitely happy to own and cherish for life. Yves would be proud.
