Smoke and Mirrors: Galliano’s Subterranean Reverie
Review of Fendi Spring 2024 Couture Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
John Galliano for Maison Margiela or Maison Margiela for John Galliano? Haute Couture Week will never be the same after this presentation because the images and the WOW will never be forgotten. Galliano embodied every ounce of creativity into the storyline, leaning into the iconic semblances of subversive Victoriana against a backdrop of theatrical and cinematic proportions. This was Art.
In a smokey subterranean tavern under the Pont Alexandre III, discarded pool tables, ancient stone walls, vintage mirrors, aged, worn, and tattered leather couches, wooden tables, bentwood chairs, and waiters serving ‘whisky cocktails,’ a general atmosphere of the used and disused – all served as the perfect backdrop for this spellbinding performance. The expectant energy was palpable.
The show opened with a “film noir” directed by Baz Luhrmann. It was a gripping tale set in a mysterious port tavern with jewel heists, intense dramatic chases along the Seine, a hero looking to lose his life, and a tango performance that could steal your breath. The drama, the suspense, this film noir came to life, dancing in dramatic theatre on the vintage mirrors around the tavern.
Galliano is a genius; he took his audience and transported them to the very core of Parisien nightlife to breathe in the essence of the drama playing out before them – showcasing the beauty and mystery of Paris after dark, the city’s streets, nightclubs, and nocturnal haunts by using the atmospheric drama of light and shadow, capturing a raw, yet poetic Paris.
And perhaps a pictorial reference, this work was not significantly different from the work of Brassaï, born Gyula Halász, a renowned Hungarian-French photographer, sculptor, and filmmaker best known for his profound and influential portrayal of Parisian life. He captured the essence of the city’s streets, cafes, and more bohemian aspects, including its nightlife, the ballet, and the high society. His photographs offer a vivid and candid glimpse into the urban life of Paris, characterized by a deep fascination with the city’s underbelly.
Against this backdrop, Galliano presented an extraordinary collection of subversive silhouettes. Each one a dramatic characterization of the human anatomy – the waist and derriere, the pivotal focus, exaggerated to voluminous proportions and accentuated even further by Victorian corsetry pulled to breath-stopping dimensions. Still, it worked in serving the visual pretext of the garments. It may have appeared dark and provocative, but every silhouette was a work of art. The “Artisanal” collection, true to its name, emphasized the handcrafted essence of haute couture. Each outfit was a masterpiece, showcasing a blend of upcycled materials and avant-garde design. Corsets, lace dresses, and crinolines were all deconstructed and reassembled in ways only Galliano could envision.
THE BUZZWORDS
Voluptuous Exaggeration, Corseted Illusions, Film Noir, Sculpted fantasy, Artisanal Craftsmanship
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 1
This image portrays the essence of the collection. From the film’s beginning, the focal point is the corset and trousers, sartorially masculine and subversive, but they form the silhouette to which the clothes in the collection were built.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
The ritual of dressing is a composition of the self. With the body as our canvas, we build an exterior expressive of the interior: a form of emotion.
– John Galliano
THE WRAP UP
John Galliano for Maison Margiela presented a theatrical masterpiece, a seamless narrative woven with the threads of fashion, art, and drama. The show began as a journey into the heart of Parisian nightlife, reminiscent of the smoky intrigue captured by Brassaï’s lens. In this setting, under the Pont Alexandre III, Galliano masterfully blended the ambiance of a film noir with the intense artistry that goes into crafting such clothes.
Each piece in the collection spoke of ‘Voluptuous Exaggeration’, emphasizing the human anatomy with a focus on the waist and derriere. Galliano’s ingenious use of Victorian corsetry heightened this bold exploration of form, creating optical illusions that flowed into a narrative of ‘Intentional Imbalance’, where asymmetry and drama coalesced to form visually compelling and dynamically unpredictable silhouettes.
In this shadowy, cinematic world, Galliano’s pieces echoed the ‘Artisanal Craftsmanship’ of haute couture, a testament to Galliano’s unparalleled skill and vision. The collection, while dark and provocative, was a celebration of artistry, with each design contributing to a grand, cohesive story of fashion and art.
As the show culminated, Galliano’s absence for a final bow only added to the allure and mystery of the evening, a moment in fashion history where Galliano’s genius provided an unforgettable style, drama, and artistic narrative.
