A Softer Edge with Soulful Layers
Review of Khaite Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Gritty Softness & Artisanal Experimentation
Catherine Holstein’s Spring 2025 collection marked a bold evolution in her signature aesthetic, pushing Khaite beyond the “cool girl” persona and into deeper, more refined territory. Known for her dark, edgy designs, Holstein introduced a warmer, more intimate approach this season, inspired by her journey into motherhood. This collection felt more daring, expanding the house’s established codes while venturing into new creative spaces. The Spring 2022 collection had already signaled a willingness to experiment, but after several seasons of leaning into those foundational elements, Spring 2025 brings a refreshing vitality that redefines Khaite’s future.
The result was a collection that still carried Holstein’s trademark grit but was softened by a newfound sense of fluidity and warmth. The atmosphere of the show was as soulful as the designs themselves, with a carefully curated soundtrack reinforcing the emotional depth and the feeling of a personal shift. With sheer organza pants, scarf-like dresses, and modernist tunics, the collection felt ethereal yet grounded, playing with transparency and inventive layering that showcased Holstein’s evolving vision.
This season saw Holstein exploring a more relaxed, artisanal influence, with handcrafted crochet pieces adding a tactile richness. Yet, her signature edge was not entirely abandoned—oversized silhouettes, structured jackets, and her characteristic dark palette were woven throughout, creating a tension between softness and grit. At times, this balance felt like a work in progress, as the collection oscillated between these contrasting elements. Holstein seemed to be striving for a balance reminiscent of Prada’s Spring 2024 collection, where delicate fabrics met structured outerwear in a seamless blend. However, in Khaite’s case, the integration felt more fragmented, as the transitions between the light and the dark, the soft and the structured, weren’t always as smooth.
However, this step forward ought to be applauded. Last season, Holstein faced widespread criticism for her lack of evolution in a brand that shows great promise, and it’s refreshing to see her venture outside her comfort zone this time.
The true achievement of this collection lies in Holstein’s ability to evolve while remaining anchored in the brand’s identity. She introduces new elements without alienating her core aesthetic, proving that Khaite remains a brand unafraid of playing with contrasts.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Khaite’s Spring 2025 collection felt like a bold step into new terrain for Catherine Holstein, one that challenged the boundaries of her established aesthetic. By introducing softer, more fluid designs alongside her signature edge, Holstein demonstrated a desire to push beyond the familiar. While the collection occasionally struggled to unify its contrasts, it captured an exciting shift in perspective for the brand.
The interplay between artisanal craftsmanship and structured toughness showed that Khaite is evolving, even if the journey isn’t entirely polished yet. What stands out is Holstein’s commitment to exploration—an exploration of balance, texture, and emotion. Spring 2025 leaves an impression of a designer in transition, testing the limits of what Khaite can be, while keeping its defining DNA intact.
If this collection is any indication, Khaite’s future holds the promise of greater depth and dynamic contrasts, setting the stage for continued growth.
