A New Day Dawns
Review of Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2027 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Summer is when Dolce and Gabbana come into their own, and with the trend for the ‘Euro Summer’ showing no signs of abating, the duo doubled down on the aesthetic.
Amplifying their continued reverence of Italian craft and the myriad ways to remain sartorially stylish in 100-degree heat – a phenomenon that is quickly becoming the norm across the region – this is also a season (literally and figuratively) of renewal and shifting focus for the brand. With one half of the duo, Stefano Gabbana, stepping down as chairman and a new CEO being brought in to usher in a new era, the closing finale, where more than a dozen models clad in white stormed the runway and headed into the crowded streets outside, was a symbolic visual gesture of the start of something new.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Long Live The European Summer, Source Material, Arrivals and Departures
In face of much speculation, Dolce and Gabbana have confirmed they are still very much a design duo. As was proven at the finale of their spring 2027 show, both Stefano and Domenico took their customary bow today. Despite an announcement in April confirming the formers resignation as Chairman the creative arm of the brand will still be led by the designers who have been in business for over four decades.
This did not mean that major changes won’t be happening behind-the-scenes. Stefano Cantino was ushered in as CEO in April, having held prior roles at Prada and Louis Vuitton, marking the start of a significant shift for the brand. The embrace of transformation can’t come at a more key moment, as the global luxury market continues to reel from changing consumer priorities due to ongoing conflicts, rising inflation and the uncertainty of the job market due to AI.
Yet, from the stands it appeared to be business as usual. With a collection that showcased why Italians do it better and why summer truly is when the brand produces some of their strongest work. Amplifying Italian craftsmanship in the form of lacework, beading and the customary references to religious iconography. Where the challenge for Cantino may lay will be in building back a sense of relevance in the current fashion landscape. Tapping into the next generation with low-hanging fruit such as footballs rising stars during the FIFA World cup fever would have been one way to go. As the tournament grips both die-hard and casual fans, the ‘stadium walks’ of players from France, England, Spain, and Brazil are further cementing the growing relationship between sport and fashion. Several inches have been dedicated to the reporting of these athletes love of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Dior. But, not to long ago there was a time when the brand owned this space, think of the early 2000s and the special relationship with David Beckham. It is not unthinkable that this is an arena that they can once again dominate (the current collaboration with Diadora is an encouraging start), if positioned correctly.
A ‘Sicilian Vacation’ provided both the inspiration and the backdrop this season. Opening with an unusually calm scene, prior to the show’s start, models wandered around columns backdropped by a mesmerising Sicilian sunset (whose perfection could raise questions over an AI intervention). In the co-founders world, every summer is a ‘Euro Summer’ – not just a fleeting trend on TikTok. This translated to the shortest of shorts, mesh knits, broderie anglaise, an ongoing flirtation with bejewelling (coinciding with an exhibition currently on at Milan’s Palazzo Morando titled ‘The Gentleman: Men’s Style and Jewellery), postcard prints, and of course their relaxed take on the summer suit.
The use of ice-cream shades and tones of deep berry highlighted with shots of aqua blue are where the brand should expand their interest further next spring, as these later looks stand alone as the most succinct version of how to make craftsmanship appear modern, and prove that adornment can be considered a casual option.
THE WRAP UP
This year is set to be one where Dolce and Gabbana seek to reaffirm their status as luxury market leaders. Starting with their C-suite shake-up, doubling down on their beauty and lifestyle divisions, as well as Madonna’s Confessions II film (she is also the face of The One fragrance). The duo has remained steadfast in their dedication to their Italian roots, with collections that are both reflective of this stance and are embodiment of this vision.
In the midst of all this change there is still scope to move the brand forward, as the menswear landscape is changing and designers are questioning what masculinity should look like now. A pressing question as softer sartorial sentiments are still rejected in some corporate environments and the shift away from streetwear doesn’t automatically require the donning of a three-piece suit. Men are becoming more comfortable playing with their identities from one season to the next, and a brand as influential as Dolce and Gabbana should lean into expanding their male archetypes to meet these evolving needs.
