Gucci Unveils New Horsebit Fine Jewelry and Watch Collection

Gucci is expanding one of its most recognizable house codes with a new Horsebit fine jewelry and watch collection, accompanied by a campaign photographed by Carlijn Jacobs.

The collection reinterprets the Horsebit across necklaces, rings, bracelets and watches, building on a motif that has moved between Gucci’s fashion, accessories and jewelry collections for more than seven decades.

Jacobs photographs the new pieces through a cinematic interplay of light and shadow, emphasizing both the graphic quality of the Horsebit and the reflective surfaces of gold, diamonds and steel. The campaign was created under the Art Direction of Baron & Baron, with styling by Marie Chaix.

The jewelry offering includes a yellow gold chain necklace set with diamonds as well as small and large pendant necklaces available in yellow or white gold and accented with diamonds. Contrarié rings reshape the Horsebit into an open composition in yellow gold with diamond detailing.

Bracelets range from a yellow gold chain design set with diamonds to more sculptural bangles offered in two sizes. The latter include both a diamond-set yellow gold version and a more streamlined interpretation in yellow gold.

A Horsebit watch extends the motif into timepieces, pairing a steel chain bracelet with a silver dial. Rather than treating the equestrian reference as an applied decorative element, the design incorporates the recognizable Horsebit form into the structure of the bracelet itself.

The collection draws on a symbol with a particularly long history at Gucci. The Horsebit first appeared in an artisan’s notebook at the end of the 1940s before becoming part of the House’s accessories and loafer collections during the 1950s.

Its move into jewelry and watches followed in the 1970s, expanding a visual code originally associated with Gucci’s equestrian references into a broader design language. The dedicated Gucci Horsebit fine jewelry collection debuted in 2004.

That history gives the new collection a straightforward proposition: rather than introducing a new jewelry signature, Gucci is further developing an emblem already closely associated with the House. The shift into varying scales, metals and diamond treatments allows the Horsebit to move from relatively discreet pendants and rings to more assertive chain necklaces and sculptural bracelets.

Jacobs’ campaign reinforces that continuity while giving the pieces a more contemporary visual setting. Through tightly controlled lighting and cinematic shadow, the familiar Horsebit becomes both the collection’s historical reference and its central graphic device.