Get an exclusive look at Aelis‘s innovative Fall 2025 couture fashion show from the runways of Paris Couture Fashion Week, held in June 2024.
Darkness and Delicacy
Aelis’ Fall 2024 couture collection saw creative director Sofia Crociani partnered with Hong Kong University to create a new opalescent finish for her fabrics, alternating between delicate gowns and a dark academia aesthetic.
The collection focused on sustainability, sourcing black velvet from the Paris Opera Ballet and using a chemical and water-free method to spray silver nanoparticles on vegan BioSilk, achieving a pearlescent finish reminiscent of butterfly wings.
Staying true to house codes, Crociani featured undone gowns with raw hems, visible stitching, and upcycled jewelry, incorporating more layers for added volume this season.
Emphasizing ethical practices, only found feathers were used for avian accents, and European BioSilk was sent to Hong Kong for treatment to meet GOTS-certification standards.
The collection showcased upcycled costume pieces from the opera, featuring Victorian puff sleeves, bustled skirts, and draped sashes for a dark academia aesthetic, adding richness to the overall look. Crociani retained performers’ tags inside upcycled garments to honor their history and story, emphasizing the significance of each piece’s background.
The collection was presented amidst Roman antiquities and midcentury modern furniture at the Pierre Augustin Rose gallery, creating a cohesive dialogue between contrasting shapes and textiles.
