The Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collections showcased a stunning array of avant-garde footwear. Designers explored a wide range of styles, from delicate and feminine high heels, sparkling silver crystals, embellished mules fit for the cosmos to bold platforms and perspex heels; each piece was a testament to artistic creativity and craftsmanship. Platforms and ankle straps, Mary Jane T-shaped 20s shapes, and feminine high heels of statuesque proportions graced the haute couture shows for S/S 24. Yet, there was something a little more out of the ordinary where the unexpected appeared to grace the delicate feet of those who trod the runway.
At Schiaparelli, the collection featured a striking blend of ‘casual’ and luxury styles, including cowboy-inspired mules in black leather adorned with metal-toe caps, signature “S” shaped heels, and thigh-high boots in brown patent leather with a crocodile effect, also bearing the signature “S” shaped heel. Black patent leather keyhole pumps, each a work of art, symbolized the brand’s opulence while embracing a streetwear aesthetic. This combination reflects Creative Director Daniel Roseberry’s skill in merging different fashion worlds, infusing casual American sportswear with Parisian chic.
Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior presented a modern-day everyday twist to her footwear; items that would regularly be seen in the everyday day were dressed in moire silk and offered up to be the not-so-everyday. Fendi’s slips of ethereal quality showcased sparkling mules – light, cosmic accouterments for the Scatola’s silhouette. Valentino‘s high-heeled mules and Chanel‘s singular tee bar did not “shake the rafters” but were a perfect twist on the usual for showcasing the narrative of the exquisitely crafted clothes.
Simone Rocha for Jean Paul Gaultier‘s collection presented a unique interpretation of traditional styles, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship of the clothes without detracting from the overall appeal. And even though many of the models wore the Cinderella slipper–esque platforms, they added a playful and provocative ambiance – some even had a trail of blonde hair covering the heel. The use of transparent plexiglass platform shoes paid homage to crystal heels, adding a modern twist to the collection’s ethereal yet austere themes. Then there were those down-to-earth flat brogues – a pleasant surprise against the lightness and sensuality of the collection.
These collections highlighted a trend towards playful and provocative designs, redefining the boundaries of traditional footwear in haute couture. This season, they celebrated heritage and innovation, with each designer bringing their unique vision to the forefront of fashion.
