Review of Issey Miyake Fall 2023 Fashion Show
A New Rhythm, but a Familiar Rhyme
By Angela Baidoo
Set in the regal surroundings of the Théâtre du Châtelet, the Issey Miyake fall 2023 collection was titled ‘The Square and Beyond’, and what was presented was a brand moving in step to a new rhythm, very much demonstrating a seasoned Artistic Director in Satoshi Kondo who was taught by a master, determined to adapt the brand for its next chapter.
The Square and Beyond, revisits the convention in many creative professions that is built upon a square: a canvas, a music score, a piece of fabric
Satoshi Kondo, Artistic Director, Issey Miyake
Taking the square as the starting point of the season, Issey Miyake Artistic Director Satoshi Kondo, looked to it for its historical significance as the base for many in their respective creative fields to build upon. As the show notes highlight, this could take the form of “a canvas, a music score, a piece of fabric”, and the fall collection which took place in eight parts, was an exercise in how this simple geometric form can be applied to the body to create unconventional, yet truly desirable silhouettes.
The ’Square Scheme’ which made up part two of eight, featured knitted squares formed of both vertical and horizontal ribbed knits, that were combined with lightweight performance nylons to create irregular silhouettes that perfectly melded form and fluidity. And due to the heavier weight of the knits, the woven nylon fabric formed tent and poncho-style structures which framed the body. Presented first in black and white which created a bold graphic effect, then the following section was rendered in a semi-nautical green-and-white combination, which again looked to tackle the trans-seasonal conversation by offering looks which will work when this collection actually hits stores at the end of summer, when temperatures are often in contrast to the season.
The ‘Rhythm Check’ section was unexpected yet made the strongest statement. Transforming Miyake’s expertise in surface manipulation into a puckered fabric, which was explained in the notes “The soft and three-dimensional look of the fabric is a result of intentional shrinkage. Shrinking yarn is woven into the fabric in a grid pattern before processing in high-temperature water, while the fabric is double in size”. Each look had a slightly shrunken effect, which with the addition of the check pattern was a new take on grunge.
Reviving the APOC – A Piece of Cloth – concept, the final looks in the ‘Square One’ section in a similar way to the original concept, will produce no excess fabric during production
And taking it back to ‘Square One’, which was the natural starting point for this collection, voluminous and off-kilter shapes were printed with a singular square and reworked into different silhouettes, so you catch partial glimpses of the corners or sides of the original square. This section focussed on linear forms, and were developed so as to produce no excess fabric waste during production, a fitting update of Issey Miyakes original APOC, or “A Piece of Cloth” apparel concept, that was first introduced in 1997, which was designed to minimise waste, and is subsequently the year which is being celebrated as “A decisive year in history of contemporary fashion” in an exhibition in the city at the Palais Galliera, set to open this month. Aligning this collection perfectly with this moment.