Review of LaQuan Smith Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Dynasty
By Mark Wittmer
Laquan Smith’s Fall 2023 show began with an iconic line delivered by Joan Rivers in Dynasty, the legendary 80s soap opera that launched her to international stardom – a powerful statement about taking back what is her own, delivered while dumping the fur coats of her ex-husband’s new wife off a balcony. It was a fitting kickoff for a collection that competently threaded tailored 80s power dressing and Hollywood glamor through Smith’s belovedly bold and proudly sensual signature style.
Smith refined his bodycon, cutout party dresses with elegance and intentionality, while making the smart moves of introducing tailoring and menswear.
There’s still lots of skin exposure, but the ways in which it is exposed feels more clever: the cut-outs are executed with a tailored sense of precision; a backwards tuxedo jacket becomes a mini dress; low-slung skirts have built-in panties; Smith’s penchant for sheer material is deployed with alluring elegance. The latter also points to the more refined and intentional use of material throughout the collection, with silks and an interesting stretch suede making the kind of sensual impact that an acid bright color or an exposed nipple might have in past seasons.
In both the women’s and menswear pieces, tailoring references the classics without trying to replicate them, instead putting a playful and progressive spin on familiar cuts. A cropped tuxedo jacket with elongated lapels lends power while accentuating the waist when worn over a mini skirt. Tails and bottom sections are shorn away, making double-breasted jackets echo the cut-out dresses in their body baring daring, even and most excitingly on men’s looks.
Some Alexis Colby-worthy fur coats adorn the bare shoulders of a few key looks toward the end of the collection, further pushing the sense of Hollywood glamor that threads its way through the collection.
Still a young designer, LaQuan Smith grows more into himself every season, and it was exciting to see him make strong steps forward as he continued to plant the seeds of his own fashion dynasty.
