Molly Goddard Giddy’s Up into Fall
Review of Molly Goddard Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
As opposed to settling on a new theme each season, Molly Goddard uses her previous collections as her starting point, conducting experimental fittings and mixing these in with vintage pieces, as a way to refine down and filter out the best-of-the-best if you will.
This season it was all about the blob silhouette, which may not sound as phonetically pleasing as the bubble, but it’s a fun new way to look at the shape. Which also gives us a new direction from her fit and flare signature styles. Her show notes reveal drawing on 1960s Cristobal Balenciaga, whose balloon dress was surely a fixture on the designers moodboard this season. Many have recreated this silhouette in the past but Goddards way with neon brights in taffeta and tulle, as well as the use of elastication over corsetry, and splitting the style into sets look fresh, and the designer should be encouraged to keep investigating these ‘abstracted silhouettes’ for next season.
The rotundness of skirts layered with ruffles or tucked into hems continued the designers game of dress-up as the models appeared as if young girls playing in their mothers closets, trying on layer-after-layer until they get just the right combination of chaos. It makes sense then that “Blown up kids cowgirl dresses” were on Goddard’s Ebay watchlist, but what no-one may have had on their London Fashion Week bingo card was that Goddard would go ‘giddy-up’ for cowgirl style. A trend which is currently running rampant through pop culture and is only set to gain even more fans as Beyoncè teased her upcoming country music album during the Super Bowl LVIII. Making it work as part of her brand DNA cutesy jacquard knits, striped shirts, and tailored coats featured the classic contrast piping, low-slung belts, and red rose motif, which served to add an unexpected casual slant to the frothy confections she is known for. The coat in particular, styled over her oversized tulle dresses or pussy-bow knits, would have been the perfect mix of both worlds.
THE BUZZWORDS
Ballooning silhouettes, cowgirl comes to town, visual patterns from the past
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Inspired by the balloon silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga in the 1960s, Goddard gives us a new take through layering and elastication for the comfort of the modern wearer.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Experimentation, especially when you are a brand known for having a very specific visual language, is a decision which has to be carefully made each season. Do you rock the boat and add in something unexpected – and risk alienating your core customer – or stick to the status quo to keep global buyers happy.
In this outing Molly Goddard went with her gut and it worked as the addition of the western elements align with what is happening culturally, but also aren’t so kitschy as to leave the viewer pondering their inclusion. Here we were given a view into Goddard’s watchlist and the way in which the push and pull of new ideas can lead to a positive outcome.
