West Meets East
Review of Prabal Gurung Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Leaning into his Nepalese heritage and his life experience living in cosmopolitan cities like London, Delhi, and New York, Prabal Gurung proposed a unique take on multicultural layering and patination. Archetypically humble and universally known fabrics were given a couture-like treatment – linen was washed, hand pleated, and formed into cascading gowns – while oversized, embellished tailoring was layered over balloon pants or updated saris.
THE BUZZWORDS
Borderless. Embellishment. Texture. Movement.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 35
Coming amidst the movement of evening-ready gowns that closed the collection, this sculptural yet fluid dress (paired with oversized, asymmetrical statement jewelry) epitomized the collection’s synthesis of earthy, universal materials and elegant craftsmanship.
THE DIRECTION
Adding another dimension to the collection’s consideration of intimacy and layering is the debut Prabal Gurung’s collaboration with underwear and lingerie brand Hanky Panky, which imagines underwear-as-outerwear pieces illuminated with craft embellishment.
While sunny weather would have felt like a better fit for a collection so full of texture and life, Prabal Gurung and his production team still made the most of the rainstorm over Roosevelt Island’s Four Freedoms Park. The models deserve a special commendation, too, for walking uphill on a wet runway in tall heels and thick platforms.
THE QUOTE
There’s always a lot of talk about “east meets west,” but I think it’s time the west meets the east. I love the collaging of ideas, cultures, genders, continents, but often those narratives are in favor of the majority. I wanted to play with that idea and find a sense of true appreciation in this layering of cultures.”
– Prabal Gurung
THE WRAP UP
Prabal Gurung has always had a knack for infusing his design work with reflections on personal journeys and his activist mindset, and this collection is another strong evolution of that practice. Impressively balancing intricate artisanship with a light touch, the designer invites us to celebrate the beauty of honest exchange.
