Le Salon. Pierpaolo’s Tribute to the Atelier’s Craftsmanship.
Review of Valentino Spring 2024 Couture Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Valentino’s Haute Couture under Pierpaolo Piccioli consistently brings a thoughtful message embedded within its collections. This season, titled “Le Salon,” focuses on the sacred process of couture, a tribute to the handwork of the artisans at the Valentino atelier. The choice of venue, the intimate salons on Place Vendôme, marks a departure from the previous season’s fairytale display at the Château de Chantilly. With its sweeping staircase curving around like a Nautilus shell, this setting offered a hushed intimacy as models descended in silhouettes bathed in varying shades of gelato hues.
The collection opens with a blend of these softer mid-century colors, a slight detour from Piccioli’s typically more saturated palette. Aqua, arctic blue, pale gray, pastel green, and eggplant – glorious hues in daring contrasts – delicious, gratifying, provided a refreshing change to the Pink and Barbie-equal shades of late. It starts with a white feathered tunic over magenta trousers and a purple-ish brown jacket, followed by a draped burgundy dress over dusty pink pants. The less saturated colors include a pair of wide-leg orange trousers that skew darker, contrasting the expected tangerine vibrancy. The first notable pop of color emerges with a red tinsel cape over dusty pink overalls and a sheer pussybow blouse.
This season, Piccioli plays with shapes and dimensions, using contrasting volumes within a more traditional exploration of silhouette, often characterized by restraint through juxtaposition; in some cases, the volume is used sparingly in clean lines that sit close to the body. In others, the volume is exaggerated, such as the full fifties style skirt worn back with an oversized masculine blazer to a strapless magenta ball gown with a fully structured skirt cut right over the ankles. This form of styling strikes a balance, with eye-catching elements anchored by more foundational pieces, such as a yellow trumpet skirt against a grey turtleneck worn with an oversized sartorial blazer – modern in execution yet simple in detail, or a sculptural orange bandeau top with a grey pencil skirt. There may have been less embroidery and handcrafting this season, but the beauty is in the detailed work of the cut of the garments. True to Haute couture, Pierpaolo succumbed to a few surface details – placing chiffon ruffles on a silver embroidered camisole dress or the hand-pleating of forest green jersey on an apron dress. And to add to this is a peacock green silk dress that seems draped but requires immense skill, exemplified by the work of 81-year-old Antonietta de Angelis in the Rome atelier.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 8
As Piccioli plays with shapes and dimensions, using contrasting volumes within a more traditional exploration of silhouette, this ensemble exemplifies how it all works together – the bespoke cut of the oversized coat, the textured pencil skirt, and the unusual play of contrasting colors.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Pierpaolo Piccioli reminds us that the true essence of luxury lies not in its loud proclamation but in its quiet mastery. He strips haute couture back to its purest form, demonstrating that the ultimate luxury is the art of crafting truly remarkable clothes, each a testament to the skill and dedication of the artisan’s hand.
THE WRAP UP
The recent show at Valentino’s historic headquarters highlights Piccioli’s intent to underline the one-to-one approach central to the couture process. This return to couture’s intimate settings aligns with the current pop culture fascination with the golden age of couture, as seen in TV shows like “Cristóbal Balenciaga” and “The New Look”. The absence of elaborate embroideries doesn’t detract from the intricacy of the work. Any bespoke tailor will appreciate that it is only an exceptional atelier who can achieve a perfect fit with an extremely voluminous jacket, let alone a pair of trousers that can sit at the right spot in the curve of the derriere. Within this premise, Piccioli emphasizes the humanity behind each creation, moving away from the term ‘petites mains’ to acknowledge his team’s individuality and life experiences. This collection celebrates the soul and humanity behind haute couture, a testament to the art of making remarkable clothes.
