Scissorhands – a Haute deconstruction of Couture.
Review of Viktor & Rolf Spring 2024 Couture Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
There is a lot to be said for white space; it always works to showcase pieces of art. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren transformed the runway into a dynamic, stark canvas, showcasing their unique ability to merge art with fashion. And so it was in this space that this creative duo presented their monochromatic Spring 2024 Haute Couture masterpiece. Accompanied by the rhythmic sound of scissors cutting through fabric, the collection emerged as a profound exploration of the themes of destruction and reconstruction.
The collection, consisting of 28 all-black and nude ensembles, initially suggests a departure from Viktor & Rolf’s characteristic flamboyance, opting for a simple monochromatic palette. However, this initial simplicity is a clever prelude to the dramatic deconstruction that defines each piece. and the absence of colour placed a resolute focus on the silhouette.
What sets this collection apart are the several vignettes, each comprising four silhouettes. The first in each series is a fully realized, impeccably crafted black gown, embodying the quintessence of haute couture. This intact piece serves as the genesis for the subsequent three silhouettes in each vignette, which are presented in varying stages of deliberate deconstruction. This structured progression from the whole to the artistically fragmented offers a visual narrative of transformation and the creative process, further enhanced via the nude-colored undergarments. And just a note to self, there must be something in the air this Haute Couture season – corsetry is redefined on so many levels – it brings to mind the famous image by Horst P. Horst, Mainbocher Corset, photographed in 1939 and published in American Vogue – a black and white image of a model wearing a corset laced up the back. But it is also important to mention since it brought to an end loose fitting silhouettes in favor of a slim waist and controlled hourglass figure – a prevalent shape of today. For Viktor and Rolf, whether a full ball gown or coat, all bore some semblance of a delicate hourglass silhouette created through the couture details of the undercorset.
Each important item of dressing was not spared those scissors. One such example is a long, satin coat. Initially presented as a flawless structure, it undergoes a meticulous deconstruction, revealing its lining, then gradually being slashed to the point where only a remnant of its collar remains and, of course, a corsetier. This approach is mirrored across the collection, from an evening dress that evolves into a mere tulle petticoat to a sleek pantsuit deconstructed into a tattered yet still cohesive playsuit. Even the little black dress was not saved from having its life cut out, but the result was infinitely mesmerizing and wearable, yet they formed starting points
for something even more new. “What appears to be an end result actually proves to be a new beginning”.
Deconstruction, Monochromatic, Corsetry, Nude, Flawless structure,
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 11
Several key silhouettes were deconstructed cleverly, but this ballgown provided an in-depth view of the deconstruction of the whole. Bearing a comparable analogy to the mask in The Phantom of the Opera, it was flawless on one side with the controlled polish of the finalized, ‘perfect’ couture outfit and, on the other, at odds with the raw, experimental spontaneity.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
From minuscule holes in a rorschach motif to a ballgown hacked in half: holes and slashes are controlled and directed but also form instances of orchestrated chaos,”Viktor & Rolf
– Viktor & Rolf
THE WRAP UP
This exploration of deconstruction has consistently challenged the norms of haute couture, revealing the internal structures of garments or reimagining traditional fashion elements in unexpected ways. For Viktor and Rolf, the all-black collection, executed in various couture staples: velvet, sequins, and satin, is both fluid and compact, and the absence of color puts a resolute focus on the silhouette. And on the intricate cuttings that create slashes and holes in decorative patterns, allowing for the body to show in unexpected ways, the Spring 2024 collection elevated this concept, showcasing destruction not just as an act of dismantling but as a medium of artistic expression. The precision in each alteration within these vignettes underscores the intentional nature of each cut and tear, transforming what might be mistaken for accidents into deliberate, artful statements. It is a bold reaffirmation of the avant-garde and the transformative power of creativity in fashion, where there is beauty and innovation even in deconstruction. This collection not only pushes the boundaries of haute couture but also serves as a reminder that the most profound artistic expressions often emerge from the unexpected interplay between creation and destruction, and in this dichotomy, Viktor & Rolf create a narrative of resilience, renewal, and the perpetual evolution of fashion.
