Eleanor of Arborea Lives Again: A Modern, Rebellious, Avant-Garde Woman
Review of Antonio Marras Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Fall 2024 sees Antonio Marras delve into the history of his home of Sardinia, drawing inspiration from the inspiring and powerful Eleanor of Arborea, a judge and political leader who lived in the 1300s and is Sardinia’s most celebrated heroine.
Though her life is characterized by some mystery and speculation, it’s known that Eleanor was the last indigenous ruler of Sardinia who united all of the island’s populations under one flag. She led the nation’s defense against the invading Arogonese, and its most celebrated for reforming its legal code, with her contributions challenging contemporary notions of the historical role of women in power and creating rulings that were surprisingly egalitarian and feminist – even by some of today’s standards.
Marras brings this amazing historical figure to life in the present day with a collection that unites history, myth, and reverence for the natural world through gorgeous craft and a subtly avant-garde spirit. Dresses with a patchwork patina of intricate craft techniques recall the tangled undergrowth trough which Eleanor would have ridden as she went hunting; other structural details recall the armor she would have worn as she led her people into battle. Some dresses take more direct inspiration from the actual historical dress of the time.
Meanwhile, tailoring and more contemporary cuts balance sharp power and feminine flow, imagining what Eleanor’s character as a regal and judicious leader might look like for a contemporary woman of taste and means. These more “modern” looks and the more historically influenced looks flow together seamlessly thanks to a consistent and sensitive use of textural and structural motifs and an almost punk spirit of expressive freedom. The collection covers plenty of ground (perhaps the number of looks could have been trimmed down just a touch), but nothing feels out of place or unnecessary.
THE BUZZWORDS
Mythological. Regal. Organic. Balanced.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #72
In terms of wearable, real-life looks, the collection definitely had stronger highlights, but it’s impossible to say that this closing look wasn’t an absolute showstopper, demonstrating a stunning level of craft mastery with its sheer gown and goddess-worthy sculptural headdress.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This character is a warrior, but we also wanted to amplify the fact that Eleanor was a woman of law. She’s a judge – a judicessa – and she used her power to amplify not only women’s rights, but the rights of all citizens, and we wanted to communicate that.”
– Antonio Marras
THE WRAP UP
Taking a strong point of historical departure that is both connected with the brand’s home and heritage and still presciently relevant in the struggle for women’s rights today, the collection synthesized a gorgeous craft narrative that grounded historical fantasy in a progressive contemporary vision. We’re convinced that Eleanor of Arborea is 2024’s it-girl.
