Love (Venus) Born From Chaos at Dilara Findikoglu
Review of Dilara Findikoglu Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Chaos and (taking back) Control, Redefining the agenda, Stripping back
After taking a season-long break Dilara Findikoglu was back on schedule and broke new ground with a fall collection that explored new techniques and pushed further into an outspoken narrative on the state of the world. Including how the art she is producing intends to help women combat the incoming attacks from all sides. Imploring women to, rather than fight against the current agenda, define their own. Wise words from a designer who has never been one to shy away from uncomfortable conversations, especially around women’s autonomy over their own bodies.
Look, but don’t dare to touch, Dilara’s tribe of women inhabit a tough exterior made form safety pins and rough edges. The chaos of the inner and outer worlds reflected in the haphazard layering of mesh, lingerie, and strict tailoring. Corsets – widely regarded as a method for restriction and conformity – are reframed as armour, with the traditional metal replaced with the more appropriate natural fibres of “hefty hides” I.e. hair and repurposed shells “built for the earthly battles” she refers to in todays notes. The designer is set on bringing forth a new way of thinking for her woman, stating “our bodies embrace the promise of new thoughts, new languages, new traditions.” Her closing look was an ode to this as she partnered with leather artisans Whitaker Malem to create a molded leather dress mimicking the female body, tattooed by artist Jonah Slater.
When taken at face value, many who were not in the room (and so privy to the show notes) will make the lazy comparison to those who have gone before i.e. Alexander McQueen, but this highlights the importance of context and a look behind the curtain into the mind of the designer to ascertain what inspires the collections we witness on the runway. In the case of todays collection (and quite frankly those from most of her previous seasons) there is a righteous anger that is stirring within her, as she is one of only a handful to speak to the chaos of the world today – in her work and her words. Today’s notes stated quite plainly “We see that here and now. In this world, life exists under the conditions of an insurmountable regime of destruction, subjugation, cruelty and control.” It is something that the world, not just the press, should be aware of, as so rarely do we get to hear what designers think about the world at large, and how they believe their art can change it for the better.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
If Earth was born of Chaos, Chaos will be Earth’s end. We see that here and now. In this world, life exists under the conditions of an insurmountable regime of destruction, subjugation, cruelty and control. For longer than we care to recall, we have rallied against it with our deepest fibres. We have waged war on its terms, staging rituals and coups against its impenetrable fortress – acts of divine feminine mutiny.
– Dilara Findikoglu, Creative Director, Dilara Findikoglu
THE WRAP UP
The designer’s return to the London schedule was a highlight of the first full day of fashion week, as Findikoglu is determined, in no uncertain terms, to fight the power for the divinely feminine. Her world-building which involves nuanced layering of messages as well as fabric and technique is setting her apart in her field, not only using materials such as snakeskin as an elevated luxury material but also as a metaphor for shedding the old and being born anew. Her conviction and commitment to her cause, as well as the expert execution of her ideas is a reminder that creativity still abounds even in the darkest of times.
