Milan’s strongest men’s collections this season shared a common thread: clarity. In a deliberately condensed calendar, designers used restraint, narrative discipline, and emotional intelligence to articulate what menswear can offer right now—comfort without complacency, tradition without stasis, and elegance shaped by lived reality. These were collections less concerned with provocation for its own sake than with refining ideas that endure, whether through material innovation, proportion, or atmosphere.
What distinguished the top five was confidence of point of view. From Prada’s poetic confrontation with disorder and transformation, to Zegna’s meditation on preservation and generational continuity, to Pronounce’s quiet insistence on slow seeing and layered intelligence, Milan showed menswear at its most thoughtful. Ralph Lauren reminded the industry of the power of knowing one’s world completely, while Setchu offered sincerity and precision as a counterpoint to spectacle. Together, these collections demonstrated that Milan remains a vital stage for menswear that values meaning, craft, and direction over noise.
5 – Setchu
4 – Ralph Lauren
3 – Pronounce
2 – Zegna
1 – Prada
