The Fall 2026 menswear season found itself retreating into the safe space of conservative-leaning traditional tailoring and the tried-and-tested casual cool of collegiate cos-play, yet, across Milan and Paris there were small acts of defiance that leaned into the beginnings of a return to something more maximalist while simultaneously rejecting the idea of perfection in a challenge to uneasy times.
Prada set the tone by embracing “reverse metamorphosis,” reframing elegance into something lived-in, while Jonathan Anderson’s Dior offered the season a welcome jolt of glamour. Dries Van Noten and Zegna turned inward, framing clothes as keepers of our memories: Julian Klausner’s coming-of-age knits and Alessandro Sartori’s family heirloom essentials both leaned into longevity as a modern luxury. Elsewhere, Amiri returned to the ease of his retro revival with a Laurel Canyon dreamscape, while Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton unexpectedly pivoted toward a clean utility outlook, dialling down exuberance in favour of technical innovation. Sacai, as always, pushed against convention and binary thinking through deconstruction, while Ralph Lauren reminded everyone of its status as one of the originators of the preppy aesthetic co-opted by contemporary luxury brands. Magliano continued to redefine “Made in Italy” as something expansive and cinematic, and Willy Chavarria brought back message-driven fashion as entertainment, combining community, culture with a refined collection – proof that even in a sober season, fashion still craves drama, rebellion, and hope.
10 (tie) – Willy Chavarria
10 (tie) – Setchu
9 – Magliano
8 – Ralph Lauren
7 – Pronounce
6 (tie) – Sacai
6 (tie) – Rick Owen
5 (tie) – Amiri
5 (tie) – Louis Vuitton
4 – Zegna
3 – Dries Van Noten
2 – Dior
1 – Prada
