Bringing Out the Best of Both Worlds
Review of AMI Paris Spring 2027 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
In another optimistic outing for Paris fashion week, Alexandre Mattiussi’s Ami Paris eschewed the call for purposeful design and stuck to its dedication to a winning formula of vibrant brights, graphic prints and easy shapes that make wardrobe-building a breeze.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
School’s Out, Earning His Stripes
It has been 15 years since Alexandre Mattiussi entered the market as a contemporary luxury contender, alongside brands such as Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God and the late Virgil Abloh’s multi-disciplinary Off-White brand. And when considering the last decade and a half, the creative director spoke to designing a wardrobe that could act as a companion piece to the daily lives of his customers, with an ode to the collegiate lifestyle meets Parisian savoir-faire that drives the Ami Paris brand.
Starting with a white shirt as Mattiussi’s first dip into the world of design, the brand exponentially expanded. His ‘Heartfelt Friend’ concept became a ubiquitous must-have for every hypebeast during the 2010s and collaborations with Moncler, GAP, and Puma confirming his resonance with a certain section of youth, and let’s face it late Millennial, culture.
Spring 2027 was a further study into the Ivy league lifestyle that has run through the blue-blooded veins of the brand, while tributes to the city with ‘I Love Paris’ T-shirts still felt distinctly Americana-coded. One thing this designer has fine-tuned is creating a retail-ready concept that still – as stated in my previous reviews – begs the question as to why the expense of an on-schedule show? Where the justifications came into play were in the clear paillette embellished striped skirts styled with layered polo shirts and rugbys, the multi-layered knitted sets, the cheeky shorts and the textured sorbet-coloured suiting.
If this collection was a celebration of the shirt that started it all it would have been interesting to see ‘100 ways to style a shirt’ as part of the runway show, or a performance piece to the same effect. Across the rest of the collection there was still a well-executed encapsulation of the modern prep aesthetic with stripes, short shorts, satin and sportswear that will still hold its appeal for those who have made the brand their personality and remained true to being proud ambassadors of its archetypes.
THE WRAP UP
Ami Paris has always been representative of the playful rivalry between the USA and France, proving that by taking the best of both worlds they can live in harmony, or at least in the Ami customers closet. Spring 2027 brought more of the creative directors expertise at making everyday options work harder than any other contemporary label on the scene. Which may be why we have seen the brand endure while many others have fallen by the wayside.
