Carven’s Wardrobe Archetypes Come Into Focus
Review of Carven Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
When you’re a brand with nearly eight decades under your belt, making a sweeping change may seem like a daunting task. From shifting perceptions to getting the industry in board, and finding your tribe of customer who will trust in the journey you’re taking them on.
Taking the wheel to drive home this change of identity is Louise Trotter – formerly known for turning around Lacoste and making it a major player on the Fashion Week calendar, as well as a stint at Joseph – who came on board in February last year and whose goal is for a slow and steady gear shift. And being out of the limelight, in terms of the hype-circus, is playing in Trotters favour.
Hers was a collection of simple shapes made from everyday fabrics but through skilled manipulation and off-kilter details a desirability was emdedded into each piece. Scoop necks looked fresh through a V, instead of the usual U, shape on dresses and tops, sheers were more female-friendly through crinkle textures which blurred, and backs became the new area to place emphasis on that was not to high-brow – shirts were simply reversed and dresses were left undone at the back seam to create a sense of undress. Particularly good were the footwear options at todays show as the satin sock booties were a modern take on the sports styles which neither tried to be an imitation of knitted socks or performance wear, and the kitten heel pumps were updated with a slash opening on each side.
THE BUZZWORDS
Relevant, accomplished, stand-alone
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 41
The simple idea of embellishment as placed fringing elevates this sack dress style that provides movement and an unexpected contrast in white-on-white tones.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Without nostalgia, considered archival proportions and volumes are rendered through the elimination of unnecessary details, highlighting the sensuality of fabrics and textures, amplified with tonality of neutrals and accents
– Louise Trotter, creative director, Carven
THE WRAP UP
In only her second collection Trotter is establishing brave new codes that speak to the way in which she is developing “wardrobe archetypes” for the Carven woman to make each day matter. Using quality fabrics in different contexts means there is no need to separate what is suitable for day or night. What might once have been used as an everyday dress is reinvented through high-shine fringing or dramatic pleating.
Trotter is developing an exciting new contender for women who want to dress for themselves in smart classics which benefit from the ease and comfort of sportswear.
