From Dawn to Dusk, A New Kind of Summer Sensuality
Review of Dries Van Noten Spring 2027 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Not since his debut collection for Dries Van Noten have I felt compelled to bestow a collection with a near-perfect 10 out of 10 across styling, craftsmanship and its ‘Wow factor,’ but I find myself once again moved to recognise the ease with which Julian Klausner can elicit the desire to immediately want to own everything presented on his runway.
Yet, it was in this, the closing show on the third day of Paris fashion week that the creative director took us on a dreamlike journey from the candy-coloured skies of dawn to the inky blues and deep purples of dusk and moonlight nights. Which explains why ‘Daydream by Wallace Collection’ was selected as the song to accompany the now signature sporadic finale, that sees the models take to the runway and purposefully jumble up the sense of order that we have just witnessed the collection unravel in, and absorb all the elements anew when fired at you all-at-once.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Soft Sensuality, Daylight Daydreaming
At first glance you could be mistaken for thinking that Julian Klausner’s spring 2027 collection was created as a solution to the Parisian heatwave, something that has been the unavoidable topic of conversation for show guests during an unusually stifling week – weather-wise. With the temperatures set to relent over the weekend we can look again at what the artistic director was seeking to tell us and see that it was a thoroughly Dries-like take on the underwear-as-outerwear theme that had captured the imagination of the designer this season.
Far from stripping back to base layers as a way to keep cool, for spring 2027 the designer set out to bring together lingerie-inspired foundations for their delicacy, a palette derived from the natural rhythm of nature, and utilitarian silhouettes that were detached from their military connotations.
In keeping with the season thus far, the remit was to keep things light and airy in what is fast becoming a response that designers are latching onto as a way to deal with the heaviness in the wider world. Inspired by the poem ‘A Faun’s Afternoon’ by Stéphane Mallarmé it tells a tale of nymphs dancing around a dreamlike creature – that is half-man and half-animal – barely dressed in slivers of fabric that gives the piece an erotic undertone. The poems highly suggestive language – ‘Just when this grove is tinged with gold and ash, celebration hallows the darkened foliage’ – that beautifully describes nature, coupled with the culmination of the “haze, and the heat, the wind, the trees, the sky” as Klausner told The Impression backstage, culminated in a collection that bedded down in a world that felt more sensual than usual.
The gauzy blur of the dawn influenced the opening looks that benefitted from the delicate layering of satins with washed silks and viscose to keep each silhouette light and buildable. Traditionally sturdy parkas and trench coats were paired with short shorts, boxer briefs and fluid cargo pants. Lingerie details were consistent throughout with silk tanks and scarf tops with ties featuring decadent embellishment or nature-inspired prints from the teams camera roll. The palette became a storytelling narrative as the collection started off at dawn with beiges and blush pinks and concluded at dusk and into the moonlight with rich dark navy’s and purples.
The blend of the technical with the tailored paired with softer layers in-between has been a space that the brand has owned for decades. And here glossy parka coats, utility outerwear and suede trenches were enlivened with signature floral embroidery and placement prints, while utility pants lost their hard edge as they were rendered in jacquard and a “peaceful camouflage” that was derived from a tattoo the designer saw on a model that said ‘Imagine Peace.’ Next season the world may be in a very different place as we veer off course, or come together to enact positive change, yet whatever version of the future we get this was a call to get back to nature, to the sensual with layers that connect with the body and the comfort of wearing – what will feel like at least – nothing at all, and the freedom that will bring for our rapidly heating climate.
THE WRAP UP
As the designer attested “the poems is a beautiful tribute to the simple beauty of nature.” and at a time when the world seems at breaking point, a return to nature has been the prescription being offered as the most attainable antidote this season. From waves to gardens and now a request to look to the horizon with optimism, to in effect look up and be inspired by a morning sunrise or evening sunset. And as cliché as it sounds, Klausner found a poetic kind of beauty in the everyday.
Each look had an element of soft vulnerability that is not typically associated with menswear. Sequin shorts, sheer shirts, low-scoop vests, silky jumpsuits and ombre trench coats were brought together and culminated in another accomplished spring outing for the designer.
