Labor Groups Are Demanding Greater Transparency Around Kering’s Restructuring Strategy And The Proposed Elimination Of 54 Jobs At Alexander McQueen
Italian unions have called for a nationwide strike across Kering’s operations in Italy on May 20, escalating tensions over the luxury group’s restructuring strategy and proposed layoffs at Alexander McQueen.
The strike, organized by labor unions Filctem Cgil, Femca Cisl, and Uiltec Uil, will include demonstrations in Florence and additional locations yet to be announced. The unions said the action became necessary after Kering management allegedly refused to engage in discussions regarding its broader reorganization strategy, known internally as “ReconKering,” while also moving forward with planned redundancies at McQueen.
At the center of the dispute are 54 proposed layoffs at Alexander McQueen’s Italian operations. The unions criticized the company for failing to implement social safety measures or alternative employment solutions, calling the approach “unacceptable” and warning it could create a dangerous precedent for labor relations within the group.
The unions are demanding the immediate withdrawal of the redundancies and greater transparency around Kering’s long-term restructuring roadmap, arguing that workers should not bear the burden of the company’s turnaround efforts.
Kering responded by stating that it has maintained “sound and constructive social dialogue” with employee representatives and noted that meetings regarding the group’s strategy have already been scheduled, with the next taking place in early June.
The company confirmed that McQueen is currently undergoing a collective redundancy procedure tied to a broader strategic review of the brand’s global operations. According to Kering, the move is intended to restore the house to sustainable profitability while laying the groundwork for its long-term future.
The dispute comes as Kering chief executive officer Luca de Meo pushes forward with “ReconKering,” the strategic recovery plan unveiled during the group’s Capital Markets Day in Florence earlier this year. Structured around a multi-phase turnaround strategy extending through 2030, the plan aims to simplify operations, improve accountability, and return underperforming brands to profitability.
During the presentation, de Meo signaled a tougher stance on weaker assets within the portfolio, including McQueen, Brioni, Pomellato, and Ginori 1735, stating that brands unable to return to profitability within two years risk being removed from the group’s system.
McQueen has faced mounting pressure in recent years following aggressive retail expansion and an overreliance on sneaker sales, which at one point reportedly accounted for the majority of the brand’s revenues. The house is also navigating a broader creative transition following the departure of longtime creative director Sarah Burton and the appointment of Seán McGirr.
The strike marks one of the first major labor confrontations tied to Kering’s restructuring efforts under de Meo and underscores the growing tension between luxury groups’ profitability targets and the workforce pressures created by sector-wide slowdowns and operational resets.