Marina Hoermanseder Enthralls with the Wonder of the Circus
Review of Marina Hoermanseder Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Dao Tran
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Held in a scenic surrounding in Treptower Park on the river, the venue was extravagantly decorated like a circus with balloons and banners as you arrive, there was a pair of figure skaters on an ice rink. Downstairs, there was a concession stand making popcorn, delicious cake pops, and prosecco, where guests could mingle and get into the mood. The atmosphere was buzzy, the excitement of the circus was infectious, there were people performatively dressed, though it was unclear which were loyal enthusiasts of the brand – they turned out! like at Namilia! – or if some were hired as part of the extravaganza. And extravagant it was. Upstairs and on the grounds, engaging with the audience before the show were additional performers, including people on stilts, acrobats, a tarot reader, dancer, and body builder.
It was the perfect setting for the event, which opened with a delectable, shiny, red, heart-shaped dress and continued with rainbow colored, sequin jumpsuits and full Care Bear looks, including baby doll dresses, a jacket and shorts, but also a balaclava and wide leg pants. There was also a Lego collaboration producing a delightful circus ground dress overgrown with red Lego roses. It was a full-on sensory overload of a collection and a show and we are here for it! Think disco ball, glitter mesh, jewel encrusted, hand-lacquered leather. There were, of course, her signature belt strap looks and iconic corsets, made of wet-pressed leather. They’re fun, they look fantastic, and they are an easy sell. Those and the hourglass silhouettes belie her time at McQueen, though she really delved into the craftsmanship of corsetry in the course of researching her graduation collection at ESMOD Berlin International School of Art and works with an orthopedic master who molds the pieces with the newest technology.
You’ve seen countless celebrities and performers in her attention-grabbing creations because they are occasion dressing statement pieces. Anybody who’s wearing a corset is wearing Marina Hoermanseder – from Nicki Minaj to Kylie to FKA Twigs and more – Paris Hilton, of course, went for a strappy number, and Janelle Monae for a vase dress in canary yellow.
Hers is an exuberant, colorful, active imagination that likes to have unabashed fun. If you have children, you have to be optimistic and see the joy, be the joy for them. Hoermanseder is a young mother of two and I imagine their household to be full of action and life. Her brand serves the same for its community; that’s why it’s an international success – because who doesn’t want some joie de vivre in their life?
THE BUZZWORDS
Joy, drama, occasion dressing statement pieces, body positivity
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 23
The absolute showstopper is this nude body cast dress produced in Hoermanseder’s signature leather wet pressing technique. It is the new nude, for the woman who fully inhabits her body, which at once makes a proud proclamation while offering full protection, like a natural suit of armor. It is such a powerful statement for body positivity, we can’t wait for someone to wear it on the red carpet!
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
What a spectacular way to end Berlin Fashion Week – on an optimistic, celebratory note. Always known for her fantastic shows, Marina Hoermanseder staged a resounding return to the schedule as she pulled out all the stops this season and enthralled us with a day at the circus. It was such a pleasant surprise to be completely transported out of fashion week and feel the childhood wonder and joy at the sights and sounds and smells of the circus, take delight at the varieté on display. There is a German word, Augenschmaus (eye candy), that literally translates to “feast for the eyes,” and it is fully that, a visual treat. And an escapist moment, where wonder lives in the sparkle in the children’s eyes.
It is also nice to have internationally successful brands showing in Berlin and anchoring Berlin Fashion Week with a level of production that is on par. Marina Hoermanseder is a consummate professional – having studied international business administration before fashion, she knows how to run a business, not just make art. Younger, aspiring brands would do well to look to her as a role model and inspiration for how to establish a strong brand DNA and community.
