Fin de Siècle Meets Fall ’24
Review of Zimmermann Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
While staying firmly true to its core category of flowery and feminine fantasy dresses, Zimmermann continues to make a steady expansion into new sartorial territory. Fall 2024 sees creative director Nicky Zimmermann tap into the romance and drama of art nouveau while grounding it alongside a strong selection of sophisticated separates.
These season’s printed silks feature both lushly colored and mesmerizing monochrome prints drawn from the worlds of Fin de siècle artists like Aubrey Beardsley, William Morris, and Odilon Redon. Animal prints extend the era’s sensibility into the Victorian collector’s penchant for the exotic.
But while these dresses and their richly flowing printed fabrics suggest to the historic romanticism of a young duchess, the layered styling and the way they are seamlessly woven with modern cuts makes them feel grounded in contemporary reality. Oversized denim jackets and cargo pants with utilitarian detailing nicely balance out the sheer turtlenecks and lace bralettes that peek through; trench coats have some of that same regal flow as a dress but bring a more practical versatility.
THE BUZZWORDS
Neo art nouveau. Romantic reality.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #14
Balancing the structure of the collection’s military moto-inspired denim garments with its sense of romantic flow, this set achieved beautiful volume and proportions in a more flexible and interesting form.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Zimmermann’s work that plays into the romantic and nostalgically ultra-feminine can, from a certain perspective, feel escapist and out of touch with contemporary realties and how fashion ought to reflect them. While this aspect is still present here – which will be a good thing for many of the brand’s customers – Zimmermann has also done a nice job in continuing to broaden its scope and ground this more spirit in a more approachable and versatile wardrobe for the modern woman who is a romantic at heart but still likes to get things done.
