Shape Shifting into a New Reality at Bottega Veneta
Review of Bottega Veneta Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Matthieu Blazy must have been in a reflective frame of mind this season, as the exercise of jotting down ideas – as a jumble of words on the back of a leaflet or on a crisp new notebook – was used to take show-goers on a journey of his design process. Couple that with the show invitation of an antique-style mirror on a watch strap, and it appeared that reflection was the question at hand.
Having been at the helm of Bottega Veneta for four years, now is as good a time as any to look back on the formula which has been captivating audiences and winning plaudits for its accessible (only in the sense of being sold under the guise of ready-to-wear, as a shearling coat in pistachio green will still set you back close to $10,000) craftsmanship which would rival that of any couture house showing on the calendar. Still developing his collections in a way where each look acts as a stand-alone, there were times they mirrored each other, not just from a male/female perspective, but in colour and construction. A squared-off padded shoulder sweater, was compact and styled into tailored pants for women, and extended south in a new take on the sweater dress, for men. A tri-tone dress with bauble trim, looked as if it had the ability to detach and be reformed in multiple different colourways – first appearing in green, white, and black, followed by a substitution of the black for terracotta. Here, reflection is a way to look at things through the lens of the alternative.
As above, so below. Collars were manipulated this season and piled high around the ears, distorting the classic neckline but providing a moment of wonder at the feat of knitwear engineering, which is what must have been used to create the construction of the men’s peach sweater. And to the hems of skirts in handkerchief form with godet inserts to exaggerate each step or layered with fringing bursting from the hem in contrast colours, always encouraging the eye to travel from head-to-toe.
These are the moments of fascination that will keep buyers and editors captivated by the Bottega Veneta world Matthieu Blazy is building, as the creative director is continuing to look to craft and a high-quality analysis (examples of which may be found in the scribble print dress) of couture techniques, drawn down so they can be applied and multiplied each season.
THE BUZZWORDS
Reflections, kinetic energy, take note(s)
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #
Business for the brave as Matthieu Blazy’s classic black shirt and column skirt bursts to life with two-tone fringing which is charged with kinetic energy.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Matthieu Blazy continues to show his strength lies in his grasp of exploring the ways in which form can be informed by high levels of craft, yet still made accessible. Through undoing the seams of sleeve to using notepaper as a graphic print, Bottega Veneta is building itself into a mega brand with the experimental grounding of the arthouse.
