Maria Grazia Chiuri tempers theatricality with precision tailoring and introspection, reworking house codes with quiet confidence
For Pre-Fall 2025, Maria Grazia Chiuri refines her ongoing conversation with Dior’s legacy, setting aside overt spectacle in favor of thoughtful restraint. The collection offers a precise, stripped-back take on the brand’s heritage—grounded in tailoring, silhouettes, and fabrications that feel closer to the body and, perhaps, to the woman herself.
The signature bar jacket returns, reworked into more relaxed proportions and paired with subtle checkered suiting. Sleek wool coats in masculine cuts carry an almost academic quality, while pleated kilts and fishnet hosiery nod to youthful rebellion without slipping into costume.
There’s a quieter kind of confidence at play. “The show is about reducing, editing. Sometimes it’s good to remember that the base of fashion is the clothes, not the performance,” Chiuri said. The choice to lean into subtlety—especially with classic motifs like the black Dior logo on cotton sweaters or tonal embroidery on long dresses—feels less like retreat and more like recalibration.
A flash of velvet, a touch of metallic brocade, and the occasional romantic white blouse kept the collection from becoming too sober, yet never tipped it into the overtly dramatic. Chiuri continues to build a wardrobe for women who want to wear Dior on their own terms—steadfast, stylish, and stripped of theatrics.
