From Chanel And Dior’s Fully Realized Worlds To Dries Van Noten’s Joyful New Confidence, Paris Delivered A Season Rich In Imagination, Desire, And Designers Finding Fresh Ways Forward
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The Impression
Where Fashion Gets Creative
Paris is where a fashion season tends to reveal its hand. By the time the final stretch begins, we have seen enough clothes to recognize an idea when it feels genuinely new, and enough spectacle to know when there is something substantial behind it.
Spring 2027 gave us plenty to work with. Some of the strongest collections came from designers still shaping new chapters at major houses. Others showed what can happen when a creative director has lived with a vocabulary long enough to loosen it, push it, or simply have more fun with it. Across the week, the most memorable shows created worlds you wanted to enter and clothes you wanted to take home with you.
The Impression’s ranking of the best shows and collections of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 brings together the ten strongest presentations of the season, selected by Editor-in-Chief Kenneth Richard. Each collection is considered through the strength of the clothes, the clarity of the creative vision, and the desire it created around the house.
10 – Loewe
Creative Director: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
The Impression Review Score: 9.1
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are moving quickly in defining their Loewe, bringing the ease of American sportswear into the house’s appetite for the unexpected. Familiar pieces gained energy through acidic color, fuzzy surfaces, curious proportions, and a welcome sense of play, making this their most immediately desirable outing yet.
9 – Valentino
Creative Director: Alessandro Michele
The Impression Review Score: 9.1
Alessandro Michele’s ‘Antibiblioteca’ gave his Valentino a compelling framework: the wardrobe as a library of selves still waiting to be discovered. The clothes carried his familiar richness, but the thinking around them felt increasingly focused, giving the house’s abundant possibilities a clearer emotional center.
8 – Rick Owens
Creative Director: Rick Owens
The Impression Review Score: 9.1
Rick Owens found beauty in stoicism, turning restraint and resilience into clothes that still possessed his unmistakable sense of drama. Industrial ideas became surprisingly elegant through controlled silhouettes, sculptural construction, and materials pushed into unfamiliar territory. It was Rick at his most rigorous, with enough strange beauty to keep the severity seductive.
7 – Givenchy
Creative Director: Sarah Burton
The Impression Review Score: 9.1
Sarah Burton continues to make Givenchy feel remarkably natural in her hands. Spring centered on cut and silhouette, with tailoring that held the body and fluidity that allowed it to move, producing clothes with genuine sensuality and an easy understanding of the women who will wear them. Her Givenchy is becoming one of Paris’s most persuasive wardrobes.
6 – Balenciaga
Creative Director: Pierpaolo Piccioli
The Impression Review Score: 9.2
Pierpaolo Piccioli brought couture thinking into the everyday, applying Balenciaga’s great tradition of cut and volume to pieces as familiar as jeans, T-shirts, bombers, and leather jackets. His own sensitivity to color and softness came through with growing confidence, while the construction kept the house’s architectural intelligence firmly in view. This was a Balenciaga that felt increasingly like his.
5 – Saint Laurent
Creative Director: Anthony Vaccarello
The Impression Review Score: 9.3
Anthony Vaccarello knows the Saint Laurent woman extremely well by now, and Spring saw him turn the dial toward gold. The collection shimmered with controlled excess before sliding back into the severe black silhouettes that have become part of his signature, creating a glamorous world with all the confidence of a designer who no longer needs to explain himself.
4 – Miu Miu
Creative Director: Miuccia Prada
The Impression Review Score: 9.3
Miuccia Prada looked straight at what people are actually wearing now and decided it deserved closer consideration. Hoodies, denim, sneakers, and sportswear entered the Miu Miu world with all their ordinariness intact, then became more intriguing through awkward combinations, construction, and Prada’s uncanny ability to shift how we see familiar things. The clothes may look casual; the thinking behind them certainly wasn’t.
3 – Tom Ford (tie)
Creative Director: Haider Ackermann
The Impression Review Score: 9.3
Haider Ackermann took Tom Ford somewhere darker and more private this season. Sharp tailoring and lingerie structures met flashes of skin, but the seduction came from what was held back as much as what was revealed. Ackermann is discovering how to make the house’s sexuality unmistakably Tom Ford while giving it his own quieter, slightly dangerous pulse.
3 – Celine (tie)
Creative Director: Michael Rider
The Impression Review Score: 9.3
Michael Rider’s Celine keeps getting more interesting as he allows more personalities into the room. The house’s polish remained beautifully intact, while color, proportion, and a looser sense of spontaneity gave women more freedom to assemble the pieces on their own terms. It looked like a wardrobe with possibilities built into it, which may be exactly why it felt so modern.
2 – Dries Van Noten
Creative Director: Julian Klausner
The Impression Review Score: 9.3
Julian Klausner had his breakthrough season. Drawing on the glamour of 1950s screen sirens and vintage movie posters, he filled Dries Van Noten with saturated color, playful styling, and clothes that made dressing up look like fun again. The house’s famous instinct for unusual combinations remained, but Spring had an ease and confidence that made everything click.
1 – Dior (tie)
Creative Director: Jonathan Anderson
The Impression Review Score: 9.5
Jonathan Anderson’s Dior offered something increasingly rare: a complete world. The set, the craft, the accessories, and the clothes worked together to build desire around a vision of Dior that feels youthful and exquisitely considered, with beauty allowed to retain a little irregularity around the edges. His language for the house is taking root quickly, and Spring showed how much imagination there is still to explore inside it.
1 – Chanel (tie)
Creative Director: Matthieu Blazy
The Impression Review Score: 9.5
Matthieu Blazy matched Dior at the top by creating an equally complete world of his own. Chanel’s familiar vocabulary came alive through extraordinary materials, softened construction, raw edges, movement, and touches of fantasy that rewarded looking closely, while the accessories carried the same intelligence and desire as the clothes. Blazy is building a Chanel that feels expansive and deeply connected to the house, with enough imagination to make its most famous codes feel exciting all over again.
Dior and Chanel share the number-one position because each achieved something larger than a collection alone. Both created holistic fashion worlds in which clothes, craft, setting, accessories, and imagination came together with remarkable clarity. More importantly, both left us wanting more.
Paris Spring 2027 ultimately belonged to designers who gave their houses a convincing point of view and built enough desire around it to make us want to stay in that world a little longer.