If Chloe’s earth mother had a rebellious daughter, todays showing by Gabriela Hearst is what she would choose as her uniform. Shaking things up for Summer 2023 Hearst’s offer was a futuristic vision for the brand, live-streaming from a multitude of trippy angles and presenting in a darkened space, there was already a sense that change was in the air.
A whiff of rebellion was in the air as Gabriela Hearst set the mood for an edgier take on the Chloé girl for Summer 2023
The Chloe girl, if she chooses to accept the challenge, will be seen in skins all summer long. As the material of choice for the designer it came in a range of dresses – sunshine yellow minis with top-stitched bodices and volume sleeves, fit-and-flare midis with curved necklines, and a structured take on the cut-out dress which has typically been rendered in knits or jersey.
Keeping in line with her sustainable principles for the brand, those seeking looks to party in were treated to a sequin update of leather paillettes, something other designers who rely on the environmentally damaging trim to embellish their statement dresses should consider.
Outside of leather, canvas was a key fabric for outerwear in unbleached neutrals aligning with where we have been in previous seasons, but the designer added taped seams in contrast colours – a technique more associated with technical outdoor wear – and with the addition of a weather resistant coating a future-proof classic could be born.
Long sheath dresses with jewelled circular cut-outs are likely to be subject to the inevitable comparison to Tom Ford’s Gucci-era version, but these were a worthy successor as the hardware was formed of glass and metal that felt like a piece of embedded artwork.
The boho aesthetic was restrained this season, evident only as a light dusting of studs on a denim trench and oversized eyelets with rope ties on the matching wide leg jean, while circular patchwork panels, and a space-age metallic crochet dress were more suited to the luxury resort lifestyle than a day in a field for a festival.
What says rebellion more than taking a trip on the open road on the back of a motorcycle? One taken with a Chloé colour-blocked leather biker jacket of course. Contrast whip-stitching had ends left loose, with the style being offered in two lengths that would pair perfectly with the black crochet maxi or leather vest and wide leg pant co-ord.
The boho aesthetic was restrained this season, evident only as a light dusting of studs on a denim trench and oversized eyelets with rope ties on the matching wide leg jean
This was a collection for the good (Chloé) girl gone bad which no one was expecting, and there is something to be said for keeping people guessing, because the brand will now be on everyones lips come February 2023.