Review of Dsquared2 Fall 2022 Fashion Show
Peace and love
By Lizzy Bowring
Sunday, the last day of Milan fashion week; the sun has shone every day, the sky a continuous stretch of sparkling blue, and for all that is happening in the world currently, there is such a positive vibe emulating from this city. Such a perfect scenario allows the mind to wander and think of a bohemian escape; just to let it all go, pick up your backpack and throw caution to the wind.
The sunshine put a spring in my step as I walked the short distance to the disused railway building, a vast open area with three coloured squares forming the presentation space. And now, picking up the reigns from @Mark Wittmer, who did not write a spoiler for today’s presentation, yet painted a stunning backdrop of what we were about to experience.
From the first silhouette, I knew I would love it. Every piece played right into the mood of the moment – the brothers capturing that spiritual energy of a young bohemian traveller – in a beautiful, cohesive collection”
For the Dsquared girl, this was an accumulation of precious things to her.
The extensive wardrobe for her journey was rich in textures and prints – texture being an essential ingredient of many collections this week.
Yet, here, the brothers mixed textural surfaces in remarkable tactile contrasts. Smooth, hairy, puffed, leathered, weathered”
As I drank in the eclectic mix before me, my mind went back to the 70s and how we used to collect well-loved pieces, fossicking through vintage and thrift stores for unique items and wearing them in inarticulated layers. Yet, for this Dsquared bohemian, these silhouettes were not thrown together but more cleverly conveyed with things that lovingly played together. Cropped sweaters were layered over tunics, then layered over printed sheath dresses, and worn with the warmest looking sheepskin boots. Lofty textures came in an oversized shawl that nonchalantly wrapped and draped over shoulders, worn with easy louche velvet trousers; the softness of both spelt immediate warmth.
Liberal layers continued in fabulous mixes of print and pattern – oversized paisleys and 50s geometrics – worn over denim pieces that were either faded, patched, or pieced. Outerwear ( that the brothers do so well) is reimagined in large colourful checks, making for that perfect layering piece. Padded elongated jackets – that are continuing to have a moment were layered over generously cut trousers or came in abbreviated layering pieces that kept both neck and arms warm. Totes, too, did not escape the quilting phenomena seen in generous proportions that would carry a designer sleeping bag.
Within these expansive and layered silhouettes came an assortment of playful yet smart utilitarian details”
– Mark Wittmer
As for the accessories, so many covetable pieces were on offer. Take the chunky amber bead pendant – it could have come from anywhere – the Baltic through to Madagascar and beyond.
Either way, it would no doubt tell a story of enigmatic travels and meetings with the extraordinary, as were the intricate silver bracelets and necklaces that further added to this collection’s charm and expressive nature”
Boots were equally as comfortable, riding up to the knee and wrapped in bands of soft suede.
Luxurious as it was, this was not a wardrobe of pieces just thrown together but an amalgamation of special items, cleverly curated and crafted into one whole personality.
it also emphasizes its personality of peaceful softness if anything else, an ode to self-expression.”
– Mark Wittmer
I could not put this in any better way
She’s a modern hippie”
– Dean
She’s a bohemian traveller, a wanderer. She’s cosy; she’s wrapped up and protected.”
– Dan
Yes! She is fun, free, and ready to take on the world.