Review of Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Review of Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Fall 2022


Review of Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2022 Fashion Show

All the Rumors Are True

By Dao Tran

The first five looks that opened the show had me wondering whether I was in the right venue because they were rather more reserved than what we’re used to from Ludovic de Saint Sernin – except that he himself walked the runway. 

LdSS is known and loved for its overtly sexy, wispy, glittery, see through, gender bending clothes. In fact, he presented his first two collections on men, but it was so quickly picked up and coveted by girls that he now produces for everyone. 

Everyone being the operative word. Not only all genders, but also a wider public. It’s a good sign when young designers learn to address the business side of it and broaden their offering. It’s not a cynical capitalist move – I see it as a service to a wider community that might appreciate and be into an aesthetic, but not necessarily have the possibility to push the boundaries as far in their own lives. 

For me, it’s an inclusive gesture, opening it up so that more of the fan base can participate and get a piece of it, too. It’s a healthy development arc and a sign of brand maturity, which is crucial for these hype brands not fizzling out.

To that effect, De Saint Sernin has gone beyond rave ready looks to include classic monochrome separates and knitwear for daytime and even tailored cashmere-blend coats, wool trousers and column dresses for the office. Not to mention elegant evening dresses. The neutral color palette and clean cut make this collection sophisticated and timeless. 

Personal maturity is behind the title of the show, “All the Rumors Are True.” It speaks to whatever false perceptions there might be about him by embracing them in a self-aware act of self-love and self-reclamation. 

De Saint Sernin has always been just so authentic and grounded and centered in his creativity. It’s an unabashed and unapologetic celebration of the body and the sexuality and the identity of the wearer.

Strangely enough, for the gender diversity that is the backbone of the brand, the catwalk was lacking in body diversity. Although there was body diversity in the tribe sporting LdSS at the show, which is a testament to the fact that they were able to recognize themselves in it without being represented. Maybe LdSS can consider celebrating that and reflecting it moving forward.